No matter where you are in Italy, it seems you're never far away from a tabaccheria. The blue and white "T" sign marks the spot for what were once apothecaries that sold tobacco products and salt (yes, salt).
My Nonno was the son of a tabaccheria owner, and so, too, is Gaetano Alioto in my first novel. A cousin of mine still runs my great-grandparents' shop in Porticello, Sicily, which I've had the chance to visit. There, beyond a window featuring traditional Sicilian souvenirs, I saw my great-grandfather's photograph between a picture of Jesus on the cross and another of Saint Joseph cradling the Christ Child above a row of lottery tickets and the counter where you could purchase a whole lot more than the tobacco that lined the shelves.
Stores like my family's have one foot rooted in tradition and another stepping forward, with some even embracing smart vending machines. To learn more about Italy's ubiquitous tabaccherie, I reached out to Paula Reynolds, a journalist who has researched and written a definitive guide to tabaccheria culture.
Tell me about yourself. What is your connection to Italy?
I, unfortunately, cannot claim any Italian roots; however, I am a die-hard Italophile and unceremoniously have declared myself a citizen of the heart! I first experienced Italy in 2006 as a midlife adult with a dream to see this legendary country. Fast forward to 2024, and I am preparing to pack my bags for my 32nd trip to the Bel Paese. During that span, I have learned enough of the beautiful Italian language to be dangerous, have made beloved friends, and have found my way to being a contributing writer for L'Italo-Americano, a publication based in California that has been sharing Italian culture for over 100 years.
What is a tabaccheria?
A tabaccheria, or tabacchi as they are more often referred to in Italy, is a unique sort of "one-stop shop" that is an ingrained part of Italian life from village to metropolis. The name implies the sale of tobacco, which, of course, they do, but there is so much more available over the counter in one of these small shops. Bus tickets, government contracts, loan agreements, postage stamps, tax documents, lottery tickets, pay a traffic fine… and ease the pain with a quick throwback of liquor or espresso. Greeting cards, stationery, pens, lighters, small tools... It's truly a corner market done Italian style, including the free gossip if you hang around long enough.
How and when did they first show up in Italy?
Tabaccherie came to be as a means for government control of the "medicinal" plant known as tobacco and was hailed as a curative sometime in the late 1500s. As the product caught on and gained popularity, the government caught on, as well, and decided this was a great way to throw in a few more taxes to pad the coffers. These so-called apothecaries were the only sanctioned venues for selling salt (another highly valuable product) and tobacco by licensed tobacconists. A large white "T" hailed the shop along with the words "Sali e Tabacci." Today's shops have evolved into much more, of course, but the large "T" on a blue background and even the "Sali e Tabacci" are still seen on signs today. Tradition is a serious thing in Italy!
The sign today makes for easy finding of a tabacchi and has almost become a comfort when I'm in Italy as an easy spot for snatching a bus ticket or even just asking a question about the neighborhood. I'm often struck by the proprietors of these shops; it seems it might be a qualification that they all look unapproachable and grumpy, but once the ice is broken, they're your new best friend!
How have these shops evolved over time?
Of course, salt has lost its status as a coveted means of commerce, and modern tabacchi no longer sell it, but these shops have inevitably evolved into an ingrained part of Italian culture. All the services provided make it much easier for citizens to tend to daily business without having to seek out separate entities or offices. Can you imagine being able to go pay your taxes, grab a birthday card for Zia Maria, stock up on chewing gum, get that bus ticket for tomorrow's shopping, and buy the marriage license you'll need in a few months all in one shop? Quite a concept! Over the years I've traveled to Italy, I've seen some of the evolution, as well, that goes with our fast-paced tech world. Once upon a time, buying that recharge card for my little Italian flip phone was a huge deal, and the tabacchi was the place. I've noticed now that you'd be hard-pressed to find one in most shops, although not unheard of. Which also makes me think even further back to the days when it was a pay phone and a "calling card" with X-number of minutes. And where did one find those? You guessed it: the tabaccheria.
What else can you buy at a tabaccheria today?
Along with all of the unusual things such as legal documents, it's also easy to find many of the things we'd find in an American "gas station" – a cooler with cold drinks, candy, snacks, small toys, a few assorted sundries, and even things that a few local nonnas may have knitted as I've seen in village shops. Betting cards of sorts called schedine can also be purchased... quite important during soccer season! Size does matter when we're talking tabacchi as the larger ones often carry a small selection of cosmetics (found nail polish there once), as well as small first aid needs such as Band-Aids, aspirin, last-minute birth control, etc.
How do tabaccherie vary from region to region, if at all?
That's a good question! I've traveled throughout most regions of Italy (Sardinia coming up in a few weeks for the first time), and every tabacchi I've been in seems like a cousin to the one before — a little different, yes, but not so much that they feel unfamiliar. To my knowledge, there are no grand differences in what they carry other than local preferences of the owner. I've noted that some are very basic while others seem to be an almost overwhelming hodge-podge of "stuff" to choose from.
When I was last in Italy, I noticed tabaccheria vending machines. What about tabacchi culture is lost with such transactions?
Yes, those vending machines are quite common for cigarette purchases… and other goods (wink wink) throughout Italy. This is just a personal observation, and this would be an interesting question to pose to Italian citizens, but I feel that the culture of the tabaccheria is safe. Italians value tradition and connection; without a tabacchi on the corner, a lot would be lost as far as community goes. It might be a few seconds quicker to buy a bus ticket from a machine, but look at all that's lost! None of the latest gossip shared, no candy bar to let the little one indulge in, no chance to slyly show off the new shoes… just so many things that would be lost to the tight communities that make Italy such a special place.
Italy even has fresh pizza vending machines that seem like a great idea, but every Italian friend I queried thought it was insane and would never take off or replace the corner pizzeria. Tradition and culture, thank goodness, supersede many things in Italy…part of the reason I love her so!
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