Lindsay Marie Morris

Giulia Civello pulls a worn hardcover book from her shelf and flips through it, revealing little scraps of paper marking various pages. It's a cookbook, and one of the bookmarks is labeled "Franco" for her father, marking his favorite recipe.

 

"What's amazing about these old Italian cookbooks is that so many of the recipes assume such a high base level of cookery compared to the recipes you see now," Giulia says as she looks down at the book. "It's just 'Cook the fruit; make the pastry.' There's no explanation of what that means. And there's no oven temperatures or anything like that. You just have to know, which I think is totally wonderful."

 

The cookbook belonged to Giulia's great-grandmother and was passed down through generations with Sicilian recipes and food traditions. Today, Giulia shares that knowledge through Gourmet Girls, a series of pop-ups and supper clubs she and her team host in venues and homes across Brighton and Hove, a seaside community in southeastern England.

Giulia's father came to the UK from Catania, Sicily, where her family spent summer holidays. Drawing from that heritage, Italy travels, and her background as an environmental consultant, Giulia serves food stories and sustainably sourced Italian fare with meals celebrating various regions such as the Dolomites, Puglia, and, of course, Sicily. 

Giulia shared more about her business and passion for Italian food, memorable events, favorite dishes, challenges, and what she hopes diners take away.

 

 

How and why did you start Gourmet Girls?

I thought about doing it for a long time before I actually had the guts to launch. I started in ecology and then migrated into the environmental sector. I've always been a foodie and interested in sustainable food and farming. 

I was always getting my grandma to teach me recipes. My grandma grew up with her mother, father, and grandmother in the house, so she wasn't actually the main cook in the house; it was her mother.

 

I worked in London five days a week, commuting up, which was incredibly stressful. I thought, "What am I doing? This isn't what I want to do." Then other things happened in my personal life, and I thought, "If I'm going to do it, I just need to do it now." So, I went for it. 

It started as—and mainly still is—supper clubs, which are a great model for me because I host these pop-ups at venues. I don't have my own catering kitchen, but I go into places, cook in their kitchens, and invite people over for an evening. Everybody sits together, and it's all very much about community. I come out and tell them about the dishes and the heritage of the dishes. But the real thing for me is cooking Italian food that people don't get in an Italian restaurant here. I want to cook regional Italian food, which is what Gourmet Girls is all about—everything from the Dolomites to Sicily to Tuscany to Puglia.

 

Many friends say, "Oh, we don't go out for Italian; we just go out for Asian. You can just cook Italian at home, can't you?" And I say, "No, no, there's so much more than what you get in your High Street pasta/pizza restaurants." And so that's what it's all about, really.

 

Guests enjoy a Gourmet Girls supper.

What makes Brighton and Hove a special place to offer events?

Brighton is a brilliant place. It's very multicultural and open. It has a very big LGBTQ community, and you get a lot of people who come down from London, love it, and stay from all over. You get people interested in trying new stuff and lots of different groups. It's interesting to see the kind of people who attend my events. You get all age groups, people who are learning Italian online, who are really obsessed with Italy, real foodies who just want to try something different, or people who have just heard about it. It's a nice mix of loads of different people coming together, who are joined by their interest in what the food will be like.

 

 

Suppers are served with stories to complement the courses.

 

Share a memorable Gourmet Girls event.

The biggest one I did was a Roman street food pop-up. That was challenging. There were 70 people, and I was churning out the Roman version of arancini (supplì).

 

Every time I do an event, I get anxious in the lead-up—that's just my personality. But then I come away feeling so warm inside because people just love it. They love that you can tell them interesting anecdotes and the heritage of what they're eating. 

I had a job in a cheese shop when I was studying at university. People would love it if you told them how cheese is made and the story about the people making it. It's just that connection with food, isn't it? It's totally different. And that's what the supper clubs and catering are all about, really. It's about sharing my love of the dishes and the heritage of the dishes.

 

Pasta alla Norma

 

What are some favorite regional dishes you introduce?

I always do pasta alla Norma, which people have sometimes heard of, but often the aubergine is so badly cooked. People try to bake it. It's like, "Get a pan of oil and fry it!" That's the way to get the best out of an aubergine. I make a really good pasta alla Norma, with a lovely ricotta salata, which I get from a really amazing Italian cheese guy in London.

 

That recipe comes from Catania, so I'm particularly fond of it. It's named after the famous opera by Bellini. As the story goes, playwright Nino Martoglio said, "Chista è 'na vera Norma!" when he tried it for the first time.

 

I also enjoy serving granita, traditionally a breakfast food, as a dessert. I serve it with a little brioche just as you would have at breakfast time in Sicily. I do an almond granita with a little shot of espresso that the guest can pour on top. When my dad has granita, it's always alla mandorle with caffè on top. It's just the most divine combination of flavors, so that's another favorite as well.

 

Giulia Civello in the kitchen.

 

What were some of the biggest challenges you've faced?

The challenge I find is that Italian dishes are based on the quality of ingredients. The UK climate is so different from that of Italy, especially Sicily. If you try to cook pesto alla Trapanese, which has almonds, tomatoes, and basil, you won't get the same flavor. A lot of British chefs who cook Italian food throw everything at it to compensate. You end up with these pasta dishes with 17 ingredients, which you never get in Italy. I seek out really high-quality ingredients to try and replicate those Italian flavors, which is not all that easy. And so I have to kind of tailor the menus around what I can get. Staying true to the authenticity of the dish is key for me.

 

Another challenge has been marketing and learning to spread the word about the events. Fortunately, I have a good family network and friends in Brighton and Hove. So my events initially were filled with friends and family, but once they've been once or twice, you need to move on to the next set of people. It's like, how do you reach them? That's been a big learning curve.

I attended networking events and posted my event on all sorts of random event websites, trying to get the venues where I was hosting to post it on their socials. That helped a lot. I'm lucky my best friend and her husband have a branding agency. They did all my branding, which was amazing. 

 

Giulia Civello adds the finishing touch to a Gourmet Girls meal course.

What are your future plans?

Probably not immediately, but I would like it to be my full-time job. The supper clubs are great because they allow me to test recipes. It's quite a friendly setting to do it. I haven't had to make huge investments financially in terms of catering equipment and things like that. The venues also have staff that I can rely on. But the plan is to eventually transition to having my own prep kitchen and all my own kit and doing much more private catering—not mass wedding catering though; I'm not interested in doing 250 plates of food for a wedding. I want to do small things, where it's still very much about the food I'm cooking. It's not just the event; it's about food. That's what I'm all about, really.

 

Gourmet Girls guests typically sit at a long table for a communal dining experience.

What experience do you hope to share?

I hope my guests will come away having eaten something new and learning about Italian regional food.

 

This winter, I'm planning a Dolomites menu. After university, I spent a ski season in Italy, where I lived in the Dolomites in Val Gardena for six months. It was a glorious experience.

 

The food there is just wonderful. It is quite Austrian in terms of its influence because where I was, it actually used to be Austrian; the border moved during the war. When you're skiing there, you see these beautiful mountains, and they've got all the holes where the soldiers would be hiding and fighting. It's an amazing place, and it's all dumplings, polenta with sausages, and strudel. It's so different from anywhere else in Italy; really hearty mountain fare. So I think that will be nice around Christmas.

 

I hope people come thinking, "Wow, this is Italian food? I don't associate this food with Italy!" That's the kind of reaction I like. It's just a voyage of discovery.

 

 

 

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There are hundreds of types of pasta—perhaps even about 360, says Jacqui DeBono, who runs The Pasta Project blog from her home base outside of Verona. Originally from Britain, the former journalist and English teacher became fascinated with pasta after moving to Italy about 22 years ago with her Sicilian husband. She's chronicled her exploration of more than 100 uniquely shaped noodles, documenting their stories, recipes, and preferred sauces. One type in particular has especially captured Jacqui's fancy: Sicily's casarecce, shaped like rolled-up scrolls. The pasta's name comes from the Italian word casereccio, which translates to homemade, which Jacqui says is the best way to enjoy it.

Jacqui took the time to share more about her project and this special pasta with me.

 

 

What inspired you to start The Pasta Project?

I moved to Italy 22 years ago, although I visited many times, and prior to living in Italy, I lived in Malta. Pasta is really popular everywhere, but pasta in Italy is not the same as pasta everywhere else. And I was just really impressed with how many different types of pasta—more than 360, they say—and all the different ways the Italians prepare them. It's really so much more than what people know outside of Italy or what people are familiar with. So I decided I just wanted to share that with other people. 

I am nowhere near the 360 types of pasta. I have maybe close to a hundred that I've made, bought, or cooked. I still have a long way to go.

I try to divide the recipes between Italy's 20 different regions. The pasta you find in Sicily, you won't find here in Verona. Everybody more or less sticks to their type of pasta, except for the things that have become sort of popular throughout the country, like spaghetti.

Spaghetti was invented in Sicily, but it's eaten throughout Italy, and it's obviously eaten in many other countries. So, some types of pasta have gained popularity elsewhere. And there are types of pasta that never really got out of the region. You'll only find them there. 

 

Why is casarecce one of your favorite pasta types?

Apart from the fact that it's Sicilian, I like it because it's one of the prettiest traditional flour and water pastas. And it's very versatile because of the shape. It looks like a little scroll, and sauce gets stuck inside. So, it looks nice, is easy to make, and is very versatile. You can eat it with ragù, and you can eat it with pesto. 

 

 

Jacqui DeBono uses a pasta press or ferro (pictured here). 

 

What is the difference between homemade and commercially produced casarecce?

For homemade, you can make it two ways. You can use the traditional ferro, which is a very fine iron rod that many traditional pastas, particularly in the South, were made with. Or you can make it with a pasta press.

Commercial pasta is made in two ways: with a bronze die, which you'll find the more traditional artisan pasta makers use, or Teflon dies, which big pasta makers, like Barilla, use. They don't have the same texture as the bronze-die pasta because they tend to be smoother. 

When you make it yourself, it's not as uniform. Obviously, with commercial pasta, every piece is perfect. The word casarecce comes from casereccio, which means homemade. It's not perfect, but I think homemade pasta tastes better than commercially produced pasta. It has a nicer texture. You can taste the wheat. 

 

What are some tips for making casarecce?

The only real tip is to use the right kind of flour. And what I discovered quite recently is that although we tend to call it semolina flour, it's actually semola rimacinata, which is re-milled semolina flour. So, if you get semolina flour in the States, it's not going to be exactly the same as the similar semola rimacinata because that's finer. And that's the flour that all Italian dried pasta is made with. In the States, it would be called durum flour, not semolina flour, because semolina flour is coarser than durum flour. So it's important you have the right flour because otherwise, you won't get the right texture and consistency.
 

What's your favorite way to eat casarecce?

The one I really like is with caponata. Caponata with pasta is not a traditional combo. Most Sicilians eat caponata as a side dish or as a starter with some bread. But more recently, it's become quite popular to put it with pasta. And I really like that; it's all the flavors on one plate.

 

It's also really good with pestos. You can cook it with ragù, but I think it's so much nicer with vegetarian or vegetable sauces. 

 

 

 

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Native to Iran, Afghanistan, and parts of Central Asia, pistachio trees were first introduced to Europe by the Romans in the first century AD. However, archaeological evidence indicates that the seeds have been consumed as far back as 6750 BCE. Pistachios appear in the Book of Genesis and the writings of Dioscorides and Pliny the Elder.

 

Today, global pistachio production is nearly 2 billion pounds, with Turkey, Iran, and the United States representing the lion's share. Far lower in quantity but prized for high quality, Italy's Pistacchio di Bronte from the Sicilian town of Bronte is DOP-protected and a popular ingredient in regional recipes ranging from sweet to savory.  

I recently corresponded with Simona and Cristina, the dynamic duo behind The Spaghetti Sisterhood, who have family involved in pistachio production. The Italian-born sisters shared more about these culinary nuts, providing insight into pistachios' role in Sicilian cuisine, sourcing tips, their signature pistachio cream (and favorite way to enjoy it), and more!

 

 

Tell us about pistachios' significance in Sicilian cuisine.

We come from a small city in Sicily very close to Bronte, the land of pistachios. A lot of people would argue that a big part of the production of Bronte's pistachio actually happens on adjacent territories, most of which are in the small city we come from. Aside from this, though, pistachios have always been such a spectacular ingredient to work with, and they are so versatile we just love them: savory and sweet alike, these are just a focal part of Sicilian cooking because of the various influences over the years from different cultures and such.

 

What are some traditional Sicilian dishes that feature pistachios?

From the granita to paste di pistacchio and savory dishes like arancini and pasta, these are some of the most traditional dishes you can replicate at home with pistachio. But less traditional, yet delicious stuff like the pistachio cream is what people love nowadays, so you gotta give people what they love!

 

Pistachios by Paul Wence

 

How do you source your pistachios, and what should people look for when buying them?

We are lucky enough to have family producing pistachios, so we get to buy them from them, but their production is quite a small one, and considering harvesting happens every other year, we tend to have to source from other people around our small city. We do end up buying from vendors on the street as well. When we do so, we have had the pleasure to discover most differences between, say, the Iranian pistachio and the Sicilian one: the size and color matter more than we ever expected, given that the Sicilian pistachio is smaller, chunkier, and a less bright color than the Iranian counterpart, which is slightly slimmer, longer and more bright.

 

Tell us about your pistachio cream recipe and how you use it.

This recipe for pistachio cream was passed on to us by our aunt, who loves cooking as much as we do. I guess you could say we have it running in the family! We have used it in different ways, including as a base in a granita, but our favorite way is as a spread over pandoro. Or even, by the spoon, straight from the jar—we gotta admit it.

 

Do you have tips for home cooks who want to incorporate pistachios into their cooking?

Pistachios work on so many dishes; you just have to try! From salad toppings to creams and anything else in between, you just have to add them. The flavor is delicate and will never overpower any other ingredient in your recipe in any way.

 

What do you hope people take away from your recipes?

We would love for people to learn something from our recipes, whether that's about a culture they just love or one they descended from. We try and make them as easy as it gets so that everyone can replicate them.

 

 

 

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Mike Elgan has a secret. He and his wife/business partner, Amira Elgan, are hosting their first Gastronomad Experience in Sicily. He can tell you that you'll spend a week "living as a Sicilian aristocrat." You'll enjoy authentic cuisine and wine enriched by Mount Etna's volcanic soil. But the rest is largely under wraps. 

It's part of the fun—and the highly exclusive experience. Drawing from their own gastronomist lifestyles, the pair offers behind-the-scenes access to local food, wine, and cultural experts that typical tourists cannot access in Italy's Venice and Prosecco Hills, France's Provence, Spain's Barcelona and nearby cava wine country, Tuscany, Morocco, Mexico's Oaxaca, Mexico City, El Salvador, and now Sicily.

Amira has worked as food and beverage director for hotels in Los Angeles and New York City, including Mondrian, the Bonaventure, the Beverly Wilshire Four Seasons Hotel, and the Doral Hotels in Manhattan. A board-certified holistic health counselor, she is also the creator of The Spartan Diet and has written about food, nutrition, and health for decades. Meanwhile, Mike is a technology and culture journalist and the author of Gastronomad: The Art of Living Everywhere and Eating Everything.

Mike shared more about the Gastronomad Experience, why they chose to include Sicily, what makes their offerings unique, and what he hopes participants will take away.

 

 

What inspired the creation of the Sicily Gastronomad Experience?

Around 2006, Amira and I took a vacation with our kids, and I'd been reading all the stuff about digital nomad people, and this idea that you could travel while working was really great. I decided to do an experiment for a column I was working on for Computerworld.

The experiment was that I would be in remote areas of Central America, looking at ancient Mayan ruins with my family. I wasn't going to tell my editors or anyone else that I was doing this.

I went to meetings and did all this stuff. Nobody noticed that I was not in my home office. And so there was this revelation: "We're going to travel full time."

 

My wife was working for AT&T at the time, so we decided to take a vacation. We went to Greece and loved the life so much that my wife called and quit. We just stayed in Greece, traveling on islands for six months, and we're like, "OK, we're doing this. That's it."

 

Over time, we got rid of our house and put all the stuff in storage. With the exception of two years when we lived in Petaluma, Sonoma County, we've been traveling full time.

 

Fast-forward to 2014. I was always posting on Google Plus. My wife's a food person. She's headed food and beverage departments for high-end hotels like Mondrian. She always connects with chefs and winemakers. She goes to the farmers market, makes friends with farmers, and is fascinated by organic farming. 

 

We're tasting wine in winter in Provence and chilling the rosé in the snow—beautiful stuff. People were constantly saying, "Gosh, I wish I could do that. I wish I could join you and do what you guys do."

 

At some point, my wife said, "What if we took six months of really fun stuff that we did and did it all day in one week?"

 

We had all these friends in these specific places. So, in 2017, we did the Barcelona experience, which was the first one. And it was amazing. We had this really beautiful apartment in Barcelona. Nowadays, we stay in the wine country and drive into Barcelona, but back then, we stayed in the city, and it was just a cool group of people: self-selecting super foodies who love traveling and wine.

 

We offered the most amazing peak-life experiences three or four times a day for a week. It's an incredible concept, and it works great. So we've been doing that since then, and we do between five and 10 of these a year in a bunch of locations.

 

An exclusive dining experience near Oaxaca, Mexico

 

How do your experiences differ from other culinary travel offerings?

We are so obsessed with exclusivity that on many of these experiences, participants don't even see a tourist. For example, we do Prosecco Hills and Venice. Typically, you'd go wine tasting at a tasting room. We go to the home of the winemaker. We have very close friends there who are winemakers, and one of them is an absolutely brilliant winemaker whose home is on the top of a hill, and the whole hill is her vineyards. We spend four or five hours with her talking about wine, the history of the region, and drinking and tasting wine.

 

We have friends in the same area who live in a beautifully restored 400-year-old farmhouse way up in the forest. The husband in this couple happens to be a brilliant chef.

 

The people we bring are treated like family; they're just incredible experiences you can't buy as a tourist. We often find ourselves in situations where if you do see tourists, they're like, "Why do they get to do that thing?"

 

It's very common for a chef to open their restaurant just for us when the staff has the day off, and he'll serve the food himself. These are famous restaurants.

 

One key and interesting differentiator is that everything's a secret. So when people sign up, they don't know what we're going to do, except in the vaguest of terms: We will do food stuff.

 

When they get up in the morning, we tell them, "Make sure you bring your sunscreen, sunglasses, and swimwear." They don't know what we're going to do until we're there doing it.

 

We find that people love this aspect of it. There are no decisions to be made. It's like all the good things with travel without a single bad thing. If people have an allergy or dietary restriction, there's no fuss about it. Everything that they are exposed to is within the realm of their dietary restrictions. It's just easy, super fun, and beautiful.

 

We do this in the most beautiful places imaginable. I'm a professional photographer, taking pictures the whole time. And then they end up with this incredible album. They can put their phones away, forget about the world, forget about politics, forget all stuff, and just live the way they would live if everything were exactly how they wanted it.  

 

Gastronomad Experience takes guests to Mount Etna's wine country.

 

You offer experiences in several places. Why Sicily?

We selected Sicily for the same reason we selected all the other places: It's a place we love and where we know some really wonderful people. We've been going to Sicily once, twice, or three times a year for years, and the experience kind of formed itself.

 

We are great friends with this biodynamic winery on Etna; they love us, and we love them. We realized there were enough things that we could do there that we should have an experience.

 

The first one is in May. It was so popular that it just sold out instantly. Then we added another one, and that's selling out.

 

We travel around a bit, but the star of the show is the Etna wine country and that half arc on the eastern side. We don't go to Palermo. There are a whole bunch of places in Sicily we're not doing, and there are a whole bunch of beautiful things in Sicily that we're not doing for various reasons.

 

Luxurious accommodations are important for us. In the case of Sicily, they're both in vineyards. You can't find that kind of thing in Palermo or many other places. There are many beautiful places with amazing little villages, and you can find good food, but there is really not enough there to do four or five peak-life experiences a day. So we don't do that. My wife and I enjoy those places, and we will linger there. We love them, but we need a combination of incredible scenery, incredible luxury accommodations, and high-end restaurants.

 

For example, there are Michelin ratings in Mexico City, so we'll do the best restaurant in the Americas, the highest-end, most luxurious, highest-rated restaurant. And we'll have high-quality street food. So we do the range. We want the very top, but it amounts to home cooking.

 

I won't go into any details, but we do super high-end and super-real stuff. For example, in Oaxaca, Mexico, where half the population is Indigenous, there's no phony anything. We are in an Indigenous community with people who speak Zapotec in their homes. And so we do that, but then we do super high-end stuff as well.

 

Guests of the Sicily Gastronomad Experience enjoy haute cuisine.

 

What do you hope participants take away?

About 90-plus percent of our guests are Americans. We live in an industrial food system, and this is what we know very well. So, the degree to which we really understand what makes good olive oil or natural wine good and all the details not really known even to foodie-oriented people, by the end of it, they've gone through a very pleasurable but detailed masterclass in these details. When they go home, they're just throwing stuff away and starting over. And now, with the newfound knowledge and appreciation for the best things, they become snobs about that—not in a bad way, but they just have much higher standards because they have the knowledge.

 

Another thing is just peak-life experiences. We are on this planet for a very short period of time. If you want to experience Sicily and have one week, we want you to see the most magnificent landscapes, try the most incredible food, and get to know local Sicilians who are not in the tourism industry.

 

Travel is on the rise. Most people who go on vacation never speak to somebody who hasn't been paid to speak to them. The conversations they have with the people they meet are products. A tourist is a consumer who consumes the products and services of people who cater to tourists and travelers.

 

We live predominantly outside of that. So people spend a lot of time talking to locals who are just our friends, not in the tourist industry, and they get to know them really well.

 

How many Americans, for example, have had extensive conversations with Mexicans? The country's right there. We know Mexicans as migrant workers and immigrants or their children or grandchildren or great-grandchildren of immigrants, and we really should know them much better.

 

When our guests go to Sicily, they'll meet our friends. Sometimes, the friends are cheesemakers or chefs or people like that. But we often know people we just invite to dinner. So our group is there plus one or two or three of our local friends. We just have a dinner where there's lots of conversation, and they get to know people.

 

You've really been Sicilian for a week. You've lived as a Sicilian aristocrat for one week. And that's quite an experience. That's not tourism; it's very different. You're not just buying goods and services from people. You go straight into the inside of the culture. It's really a life-changing experience.

 

 

Raise a glass of biodynamic wine from an Etna winery.

 

 

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The tradition of La Settimana Santa, Holy Week, brings people out of their homes to watch and participate in various daily processions of statues through the streets. It's also a time to enjoy sweet bread, often flavored with anise, which is typical of the Lenten season. Among the favorite bread recipes is pani di cena—really cookies—which are shaped like crosses. While this "bread" is often served on Holy Thursday, you can enjoy pani di cena year-round. 

Food writer Enza Whiting features a pani di cena recipe on her blog, Enza's Quail Hollow Kitchen. Enza was born in Palermo and lived in the town of Valledolmo for the first four and a half years of her life. 

We discussed pani di cena and what Enza hopes her family and readers will take away from her recipe.

 

 

Tell us about your pani di cena recipe.

My grandmother made these cookies for us when we were kids. She would shape them, cutting them in the shape of a cross. They were always served on Good Thursday, right before Easter.

It was a Sicilian tradition in the church that the elders made these cookies. They would have these church communities or church groups aside from the priests, and whoever was the head of that community or that committee for that year would make these cookies for all of the other members of the committee. So they would make the pani di cena.

They were always made on Good Thursday, and they would get a sugar lamb. It was part of the tradition that they sacrificed for their community by creating these cookies and giving them out in all the towns. 

My mother told me the story about when my great-grandfather was the elder, and it was his turn to make these. My grandmother was maybe 15 or 16 years old, and she was the one who made them all. 

They didn't all have ovens in their homes, so the town had ovens that everybody would use. All the women would get together, bake the cookies, and then take them to the ovens to bake them in their local oven. I guess that's how they used to make their bread, too, because they didn't have ovens in their homes; they had to use a public oven to bake their bread. So it was very communal.

The other thing my grandmother would do for us was make the little crosses, but then she would also make pupa cu l'ova using the same dough. She would put a colored egg in it and bake it. My favorite thing on Easter was getting the hard-boiled egg with my cookie. 

Pani di cena is actually more of a cross between bread and a cookie. My grandmother's recipe is more of a cross between bread and a cookie. I call it a cookie; my mother calls it bread. When you bite into it, it is somewhat crunchier on the outside and tender on the inside. However, the inside has more of a soft cookie texture than the texture of bread that you would normally think of as soft bread. It is made with yeast. So, it is a yeast recipe, but the texture is different from that of some of the breads you will see. 

 

Why did you start Quail Hollow Kitchen?

Being Italian, food is a big part of your tradition. It's how we celebrate things; it's how we communicate with each other. 

I remember when we were kids, we had dinner together as a family every night, and my mother would make meals with whatever she had in the kitchen or the refrigerator because there wasn't a lot of money growing up. So, they had to be creative and use what they had available. But dinnertime was always sacred. That was a time when we sat down as a family.

My dad was really big into talking to us about what was going on in the world because he wanted us to really understand what was happening around us and how it impacted us. During those dinners, my parents also spent a lot of time talking about where they came from, what life was like for them growing up, and how different it was for us here because it was important that we appreciated all the sacrifices that happened to get us to where we were.

So, for me, food and our traditions have always been really important. We continue to talk to our kids about those things because I don't want them to forget about their heritage, their history, and what life was like for other people so that they can enjoy the things that they enjoy today. We do all of that around food. It always seems to be the center of these family functions, celebrations, and communications. 

I started Quail Hollow Kitchen mainly because my grandmother had passed away, and I was really worried that as my mom was getting older, I was going to lose all of her recipes. So she was able to carry on my grandmother's traditions with food, and I wanted to be able to somehow memorialize it so that even when I'm gone, my kids can still have access to all of that information. And it's named Quail Hollow because that is the street that I live on.

When I got into it, I realized that I really enjoyed all the different aspects of this website. So it's grown from there, but it still centers around all of our Italian dishes and foods, and really makes sure that all of our Sicilian foods are front and center, somewhere our family has access to.

 

 

What do you hope at-home bakers will take away from this cookie recipe?

Personally, for my family, because it's been a part of our family, and we have made this every year for as long as I can remember, I hope they understand that this has been handed down for many generations.

For other readers, I hope that they want to try it because it may be different from something that they're used to. Maybe they will learn something about how other people have enjoyed foods around the Lenten holiday and Easter that might be different from how they've celebrated it. 

It's really about keeping that Sicilian heritage and history going. I have other blogger friends who do similar things within their cultures. I think many of us out there hope that as the world continues to progress, we don't forget some of the things that made our families what they are. 

 

>>Get Enza's recipe here!<<

 

 

 

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It started with a meditation retreat. Traci Randolph and her husband, Jason, were looking for a meaningful way to spend their 25th wedding anniversary. They'd worked to fit it into their busy schedules and planned a weeklong stay in Cancun. A former salon owner turned Realtor, Traci had been someone who craved certainty, always needing to know what was coming next.

 

"I always had to have a plan for everything," Traci remembers. "I was uncomfortable in the unknown."

 

But while attending a meditation retreat with Dr. Joe Dispenza, something clicked, and she realized she needed to make a change and embrace the uncertainty of life.

 

She didn't know what she wanted, but, for the first time, she found comfort in that question mark. She pondered possibilities, and what resonated most with her was a strong desire to create something that would connect with people.

 

"I love real estate, and I'll continue to do that, but having a connection with people is just different," says Traci. Exploring her new mindset, she returned to regular meditation, visualizing a future where she could bring people together through joy and food.

 

Traci found a fully restored coffee cart on its way from Italy. She purchased the vintage 1959 Lambretta and named her "Angela" after her grandmother, who inspired her to cook. She went on to name her business Fiore Della Vita, meaning Flower of Life. Her logo is a powerful symbol in mediation, symbolizing creation, just like the offerings she plans to share.

 

Serving the Greater Phoenix area since late 2024, the Italy-inspired food and beverage business is available for special events and weddings. This year promises even more opportunities. It's full speed ahead into uncharted territory for their little truck, and Traci is comfortable taking the ride.

 

We chatted about Traci's background and how it inspired her, the signs that directed her, the challenges she faced, the rewards she's reaped, and more.

 

 

 

Traci Randolph's grandmother, Angela, inspired her. 

 

Tell us about your grandmother and your connection to Sicily.

My maternal great-grandparents were from Ragusa. They came through Ellis Island, so my grandmother was raised in New York. My mom was born there, and so was I before we moved to Arizona.

When my grandparents divorced, my grandma came to live with us—it was just my mom and I because my parents had divorced—so I spent a lot of time with her. I even called her Mom probably more often than I called my own mother Mom.

 

She greatly influenced me, spent a lot of time with me, and even got to know my friends. My husband and I were dating then, so she was even a part of his life.

 

She passed away when my youngest was two, and I felt it when she was gone. I was grateful I had her when I did—the culture, food, and just having that safe space in the kitchen with her. My love language is absolutely food, and she's definitely a big part of that. 

 

After your retreat, what led to your business launch?

I went to a yoga class, and the owner of the yoga studio—knowing really nothing about me—said, "You need to open a coffee shop." I kind of chuckled and thought, How does she know?

 

I explored opening a space but realized that it would be a hundred hours a week for six months. And I thought, Maybe that's not what it looks like right now. I felt like I needed to speak to my heart and my inspiration.

 

Somebody introduced me to the idea of doing a coffee cart for events. I wanted it to be very cohesive with Italian tradition.

 

I went to a happy hour with a few friends. One is an event planner. We got to talking, and I said, "This is what I'm exploring. Would you have clients that would be interested in something like this?" And she said, "You have to do this."

 

I went home and told my husband. Then, I Googled "Italian coffee cart." Up comes this image of a Lambretta, and on the windshield, it says, "Congrats, Traci!" And it's spelled with an "i," like my name's spelling, which is extremely rare.

 

I was just getting sign after sign after sign.

 

I went to my husband's office, and my daughter pointed to the car in front of us. On the license plate, it said, "Coffee." And I said, "I need to find a truck."

 

I had looked at different trucks from Italy. There's one called an Ape from the Vespa brand, and they're really cute, but I'm seeing them recreated a lot—even China is recreating them.

I wanted something more authentic, more chic. My dad was a car salesman for 40 years, so I have a Cadillac. I wanted something a little bit higher-end and rare. And then I found the Lambretta.

A dealership out of San Francisco was advertising it on Facebook. I contacted them. They called me a few days later and said, "It's available and on its way from Italy. We can transport it to you if you want it."

 

So, all the numbers lined up the way I wanted them to. 

   

A young Traci poses with her grandmother.

How does the truck reflect your Sicilian heritage and grandmother's legacy?

One thing that was important was that because she was so petite, we wanted to have something really small and compact. I could have gone with a horse trailer. A lot of people are buying horse trailers. They're easy to find and inexpensive to modify.

 

But as I said, I wanted it to be more cohesive and feel Italian.

 

My grandmother would've really loved the cute little compact car and riding around in it. It definitely speaks to who she was. There's the sleekness. And she was just funny, too. The truck is comedic in how small it is and how it runs around. It's cute.

 

It's a lot more work than doing the horse trailer. But I wanted it to be more elegant—something people would want to have in front of their homes.

 

"Angela" parked and ready for business

You plan to start serving food. Tell us about that.

I'm getting licensed to do the catering. I want to do more appetizers. I'm not looking to really do full-catered dinners. I have other resources: people who will do the full dinner part of it, and my daughter will be doing charcuterie and grazing boards. She's absolutely amazing in that. But we'll do arancini, pizzelle, and biscotti.

 

The one thing that my grandma made before she passed away was stuffed squid. That was a big thing for us because it's labor-intensive. 

 

When I have made that, people go crazy. I had New Year's Eve here, and I made it. So we could probably do that in smaller bites. 

 

Traci sets "Angela" up for a bridal expo appearance.

How do you tailor your offerings to fit different themes?

We are having one party for a Persian couple, who want beverage taps. And so we're going to do cold brew on one tap and espresso on another tap, and then for the other one, we'll probably do a Pellegrino base. There are different Persian drinks that we will create with that.

 

These are going to be non-alcoholic just because of the location of the truck for the venue, but we can also do espresso martinis and cater those to different flairs.

 

I am excited because my creative abilities will be able to come out. We're even scheduling a tasting where we will come up with some ideas and have them pick one or two.

 

I did have somebody ask, "What if I wanted four taps?" I asked, "When's your wedding?" They said it was in 2026, and I said, "I think we might be able to get that done."
 

What challenges have you faced?

The biggest thing is the permitting. Just getting everything dusted. I've had contractors help me, but one of the things that I take pride in is that I've been doing a lot of the build-out myself. So, taking the time to do it myself has been a learning curve because I've never done anything like that before.

 

There's an amazing Facebook group of coffee entrepreneurs, and it's a great resource. I've learned a lot from that.
 

"Angela" prepared for a magical night

What experience do you hope to share?

It's really about bringing people together and having it be fun. Even at the expos, seeing people smile and come up and say, "Oh my gosh, it's so cute!" Even just the conversation piece was really what I wanted, something that people would want in the background, along with the food and all that is also just extra.

 

It's really nice when you can bring joy like that to people. That was the biggest thing I really meditated on: being in that environment where people are happy and celebrating something, and you're just being able to be part of that. 

 

 

 

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2024 was a busy year for Rita Prisco, and for once, it wasn't just because of family life for the Queens, New York-based mom of 22-year-old triplets. Somehow, between serving up regular (and frequently viral) TikTok videos to her nearly 500,000 @cucinapalermo fans, she managed to publish not one but two cookbooks—Cucina Palermo: My Homemade Cookbook and Cucina Palermo: Savoring Sicily—and Piccola Francesca, which she envisions as the start of a children's book series.

It all began with a simple spaghetti recipe and a desire to present Sicilian cuisine authentically. She never imagined she'd be competing with professional chefs and cookbook authors. And that homemade approach has proved to be a winning formula. 

Rita shared with me her connection to Sicily, how her incredible journey started, what makes a viral recipe, her future plans, what's been most rewarding, and more. 

  

 

What is your connection to Sicily?

Both my parents are from Sicily. My father grew up in the city of Palermo. He passed away, but I have family in Balestrate, which is more of a beach area, so we would go there when I would go to Sicily. My mother's from a small town called Bisacquino, which is a couple of hours from Palermo. I also have family there still. 

Can you share more about your journey?

Like any other kids, my kids were obsessed with TikTok, but it was more of them doing the dances and all that stuff. And I saw that they were obsessed with it, and it annoyed me that every time I looked for my kids or needed them for anything, what were they doing? They were on TikTok. So I would be upset about it a bit, like, "What the hell? What's going on? You just got to get off of TikTok."

 

And they were like, "Ma, you should watch it. It's not just dancing." They were like, "There's so many other things on TikTok. There are cleaning hacks, and there's cooking."

 

So I started watching the cooking because I am obsessed with cooking, and I noticed that there was no Sicilian food. It was all the food you would see at restaurants on the Italian American menu.

 

I was telling my kids, "Girls, this is not how I ate growing up." And they're like, "Well, why don't you post a video?" I was like, "No. Mommy doesn't do that."

 

It took them months and months of encouraging me that I could do it. So, I just did one to see what would happen and make my kids happy. Literally overnight, it went viral, and it was the foundation recipe, like a staple in my house that I cooked.

 

In a week, I had a hundred thousand followers, and I said, "You know what? Obviously, there's a want for this."

 

People enjoyed it. It was a refreshing thing to them, something that is easy, we could all make, and it looks delicious. It was like people were thirsty for food that actually was real.

So I did another one, and that went viral. Then, another one went viral, and from then on, most of my videos went viral.

 

Rita Prisco with her first cookbook

 

You're now also a published author. Tell us about that experience.

It took a year of people telling me, "You should have a cookbook." And that was another thing that was out of my league mentally. Never in a million years did I think that I would be able to do that! 

I spoke to publishers who were reaching out to me, and it was very intimidating. I didn't want the whole process of writing the cookbook with a publisher. I didn't want any part of it. It was too professional. That's not me. I'm not a chef. I'm not a writer. I'm just a wife and a mom who learned how to cook from her mom and her grandmother. I'm just doing those recipes and having a professional cookbook with professional photos and writers and bloggers, and all that was not a representation of who I am. 

So I said to myself, if I'm going to do it, I'm going to do it my way. I called my first cookbook My Homemade Cookbook because I didn't want to compete with professionals and be criticized. So, I just laid it out there from the beginning.

 

I did it at home with my daughter, and I warned everybody that that's what they were going to get. So if they were looking for anything different, look someplace else, not in my book. And that's another thing that people enjoyed and were drawn to. They were like, "Wow, that's what we want. We don't want a professional cookbook."

 

How many cookbooks do we have in our house that we never use? Because the minute you open them, they're so intimidating, like, "Oh my God, is this the Bible? What are we doing here?" It's like too much. 

I did my second cookbook because there are so many recipes. I do 50 at a time; it's what I can handle.

 

Then, when I saw the response that I had from people, the connection… I always dreamed of writing a children's book about my childhood and growing up with Sicilian parents in America. But obviously, that couldn't have been done because without a following, without people knowing who you are, it's hard to start writing a book, and then who will buy it if you don't have the exposure.

 

Once I had the exposure, I saw I could do it. So that's where Piccola Francesca came in, and I'm so proud. I feel like I'm more proud of it than I am of my cookbooks because Piccola Francesca is a story of my life. And it's going to continue. That was the first of many to come.

 

It's been amazing with that book because so many people also related to it. And you don't only have to be Italian or Sicilian to relate to it. It's something that other cultures could relate to. 

So many schools are calling me; they want me to come read. And I've been doing that.  

 

How has your Sicilian heritage influenced your cooking and the recipes you share?

They're the recipes that my mom made growing up: peasant food. My mom grew up during the Depression, when there was no steak. It had to be a holiday to have meat. So there was a lot of pasta and potatoes; everything was made with homemade flour. They would turn a piece of old bread into a dessert. (I have one recipe in my cookbook where you take stale bread and turn it into a cookie.)

 

When I was growing up, my parents weren't poor the way they were when they grew up. They had money, but it didn't matter because even though it was peasant food, per se, it was food that we loved that was delicious, like beans, lentils, and split peas.

 

And the same thing with my kids. If you introduce these foods to your children from when they're born, they grow accustomed to them. So that's what happened to me. 

 

Which of your recipes has received the most attention, and why?

There are a few recipes that have exploded. My first one has over 5 million views. That's my spagetata. People were shocked that you can make delicious pasta like that with just a few ingredients. It costs almost nothing to make. Every region makes it its own way. They put a little twist to it, and it's theirs. So, that is a staple in all of Italy.

 

Another one of my recipes that just blew up with millions and millions of views was my chicken cutlets. I think that those weren't as traditional. What happened is that I have a different way of cutting a chicken cutlet, which is fork tender because you're cutting against the grain. And nobody ever saw that in their life. 

You would think a butcher would know this. I actually now have a butcher in my town who takes orders of chicken cutlets "Rita's way," cut the way I cut them because when you cut a chicken cutlet my way, it becomes so tender, and it's so much better. And now they know and say, "We would never cut chicken cutlets the way we used to."

 

People also love my pasta dishes. My pasta dishes all go viral because there are only three or four ingredients. And people like simplicity. They're tired. They work very hard. And if you can make their life easier, they could feed their family without the extra work. That's what they're looking for. 

That's what I focus on every day. When I know I'm going to show somebody a recipe, I ask, "Is this going to make their life better and easier?" And that's all I'm going to do. Can I make complicated stuff? Of course. But I don't even show that to people.

 

My mom's fig cookies for Christmas take hours and hours of work, but I made a recipe that tastes just like my mom's fig cookies, and it's done in a half hour. That's what I look for when I'm looking for a recipe. I'm looking for something simple with a few ingredients that's going to taste good. It has to have those three components. And I feel like once you have those three components, you have a winner. 

 

What are your plans for future projects?

I'm going to continue putting out a new children's book, always with the same character. I'm going to focus on Francesca. I want to introduce other stories of growing up with immigrant Sicilian parents and the differences between that and being an American child with American parents and grandparents. So many things make us different, including our traditions. And I have a lot of stories from my childhood. 

 

What has been the most rewarding part of your journey?

I think the most rewarding part for me is the people who reach out to me. I try my best to read as many comments and emails as I possibly can. I have people who are in hospice. I have people fighting fourth-stage cancer that I communicate with often who tell me that while they're doing their chemo, they watch me, and it brings a smile to their faces. The fact that I could distract somebody a little from their suffering, even for those few minutes, is all worth it to me.

 

So many people lost their moms or their grandparents at a younger age. They miss their grandmothers or their moms who used to cook for them like this, but they never thought of writing things down. I'm giving them recipes for food they never thought they would make, and they're so happy because I remind them; I bring them memories of their childhood. That is the most rewarding thing in the world.

 

@cucinapalermo Make spagetata with me!🇮🇹 #fyp #foryou #foryoupage #cooking #italiancooking #pasta #goodeats ♬ original sound - Rita

 

 

 

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Meghan Birnbaum has been sharing food as @meghanitup since March 2020, when her newly remodeled kitchen provided the perfect backdrop for showcasing recipes. Many of these dishes and desserts were inspired by her Palermo-born grandmother's culinary creations. Meghan's favorite? Stuffed artichokes (carciofi ripieni).

"They were a meal, and we each got one, except my dad and I would share one," she remembers. "He would always give me the heart; it's so symbolic. He gave me his heart, and that's the best part."

 

Through her "Authentic Sicilian Stuffed Artichokes" recipe, Meghan hopes to share the love. We recently chatted about her rendition of this traditional dish, sourcing ingredients, selecting and preparing artichokes, the best way to cook these vegetables, and more.

 

Tell us about your grandmother and how she inspired this recipe.

My grandma came through Ellis Island with her dad and her mom and then moved to St. Louis. She had two sisters and a brother. Her brother went to World War II and didn't come home; it was just her and her sisters. They each bought a house, and the backyards all backed up into each other's, so they essentially shared a yard.

 

My grandpa was a sheet metal worker, and my grandma was the cook of the family. She had four kids. She didn't know how to drive. She never had a job. She just took care of the family. 

 

She watched me as a kid while my parents were working. My grandma didn't write down any of her recipes, so I am recreating everything my family and I remember based on taste, smell, and feel. It took me a while to get this recipe down.

 

Peak artichoke season is June through September, but supermarkets carry them year-round.

How do you source your ingredients?

Living in Southern California has many advantages. We have many great farmers markets, and then we have Eataly. That's obviously not available to everybody, but I mean, there are a lot of stores; even in St. Louis, where I grew up, there's a little meat market called Mannino's. It's an Italian market, and you just start talking to people about their connection to Italy. They'll tell you, "These are the best breadcrumbs" or "This is the best bread." 

 

How do you select artichokes?

You're going to want a big, round artichoke. And if the leaves have kind of moved away from the center, it's going to be even easier to make. The tighter and the smaller, the harder it is to prep and stuff. The bigger and more bloomed, the easier it'll be to do that.

 

Trimmed artichokes photo by Meghan Birnbaum

Walk us through how you prepare the artichokes for cooking.

Having the right tools is really important. When I prepare artichokes, I use three different kinds of knives and a peeler. You also have to trim the leaves, so I use scissors.

 

I use a pretty big knife to cut the top off. You want a sharp, heavy-duty knife. It's pretty tough to get through, and it's not stable because the artichoke is round and on its side. You want to have something that can cut through pretty well. Then, I use a paring knife to cut the bottom and a peeler to thin out the skin on the stem. 

I recommend a bucket or a bowl of water with lemon juice in it to prevent the artichokes from browning. The artichokes will brown regardless of what you do, but this minimizes that. 

It's kind of labor intensive, but I feel like I've gotten it down and find it very therapeutic. The more you do it, the easier it becomes. But preparing the artichoke is definitely the hardest part because of how many steps and tools you need just to get it done. 

 

That gets rid of all the prickly parts except for the heart, which is difficult to reach. If somebody tells you to remove the heart and the center of the artichoke before it's cooked, I don't know if they've done that before because it's really impossible. You should steam it for 10 to 15 minutes before you use a spoon to remove those parts. 

 

 
Breadcrumbs make this recipe Sicilian. Photo by Meghan Birnbaum.

Do you have any tips for preparing the artichoke stuffing?

It's truly just garlic in olive oil until you can smell it, and then I put in the breadcrumbs. It has to be on a medium to low heat, and you cannot walk away. You need to just constantly stir. The second you see color on those breadcrumbs, you kill the heat and keep stirring. It's going to keep browning. 

 

Add two inches of water to the pan. Photo by Meghan Birnbaum.

What's the best way to cook stuffed artichokes?

My favorite is just steaming them, and I've done it a few different ways. Sometimes, when I steam them, the water rises too high and kind of goes over the top, so the breadcrumbs on the top become mushy, which is fine. It's mushy on the inside, too, and that's a good texture. So if one batch boils over and it gets mushy, I'm still going to enjoy it. But I love it when I steam it just enough that it doesn't get to the top, and the top is still brown and crispy. When it's gotten mushy on top, I put it in the oven afterward to crisp it, but it's kind of a lost cause at that point if there's too much water on the top of the breadcrumbs. 

I have baked before. That was a more fool-proof method. If you want to make sure you just get crispiness on it, you just put a little water into the pan, and then it'll steam and bake at the same time. 

 

What do you hope people will take away from this recipe?

It's an intimidating recipe, but it's also one that you just don't find in restaurants. So I hope that people will feel encouraged to make this and know that they can make traditional recipes that are not restaurant recipes but rather home recipes.

 

It uses fresh, homegrown ingredients with very Mediterranean vibes. Homemade bread does not go to waste because you're grinding it into breadcrumbs. You're also really utilizing the harvest of the olives and the olive oil. It is like a little Mediterranean treat using what the resources and the produce available have to offer.

 

>>Get Meghan's full stuffed artichokes recipe here!<<

 

 

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Mangia was one of the first Italian words Solae' Riddle learned from her mother, Silvana Phillips. For her, to this day, it means so much more than its literal translation, "eat." 

 

"If you know anything about the Italian culture, food is their love language, and there is no better time spent than around the table," says Solae'.

Food has been Mamma Silvana's way of sharing her culture as someone who had emigrated to the U.S. from Sommatino, Sicily, as a young girl. Her passion inspired Solae' to seek to preserve her mother's recipes along with the memories they carried. 

What started as a pet project led to the ladies launching Mamma Mangia, a destination for people who love to eat, a digital brand that feeds the soul.

Solae' recently shared with me how Mamma Mangia started, their recipe method, ways they engage with their audience, their most celebrated achievement, future plans, advice for new bloggers, and more.

 

 

What inspired you to start Mamma Mangia?

In our family, recipes have been passed down only through stories and lessons in the kitchen. If you are lucky, you may be able to find a list of ingredients (without measurements or instructions), but that would be a rarity. 

As a new mom, I felt a push to preserve our family recipes, memories, and culture. So, in 2017, I approached Mamma Silvana with the wild idea that we should write down all of our Italian family recipes. At first, she was taken aback by the idea of writing down these sacred recipes. To her, they are so much more than just a list of ingredients and directions. They are memories of her mother and father, who have long since passed away, memories of a life that is tangible only through our food. The thought that someone else may have access to these sacred recipes felt scary to Mamma Silvana. 

After much convincing at the benefit this would bring to our future posterity, Mamma Silvana agreed to join me in making a family cookbook. We gathered recipes from as many of her eight siblings as we could and pieced together recipes from her mother and father. It quickly became so much more than just another cookbook. We decided to include pedigree charts, our family's immigration story, pictures, and details about the lives of this generation that have never before been written down. Each member of the family had a page dedicated to the details of their lives so that one day when my children make a recipe from this book, they can know who these people are and connect to a part of their own history. 

It took five years to finish our family heirloom cookbook. It was an experience we could never fully put into words. For me, it changed me. It filled a void in my soul that I didn't realize was there. It created a connection to a group of people I didn't know in this life, but somehow they were a part of me. Each recipe brought a memory for Mamma Silvana that also connected her to her own past and ancestors. It was a reminder that although she is now an American citizen, she will always be Sicilian. That her immigration changed her life and the life of her posterity, but her past is just as influential. We often talk about having roots in Sicily, and those roots have become deeper and stronger than ever before. 

After we finished the cookbook, we had an overwhelming feeling that this wasn't the end of our journey. We knew we needed to share this experience with others and encourage them to connect to their own "roots." In August of 2020, we decided to launch a little page on Instagram we called Mamma Mangia. Here, we share our family recipes and culture, but our true hope is that it will encourage others to start a similar journey of their own.

 

 

Mamma Silvana shares her memories.

Describe your recipe development process.

Many of the recipes we share are not "new" but rather family recipes that we have been making for generations. That being said, when Mamma Silvana moved to Utah, there were not a lot of options for Italian food items that were available in Sicily or even on the East Coast. So, she started making her own versions so that she could continue to enjoy the food she loved so much. 

Mamma Silvana has an impeccable sense of taste and smell and can dissect nearly any food simply by eating and smelling it. It is like a superpower. When creating recipes, she always knows what she wants and how it should taste and, therefore, does not usually require much testing or perfecting. 

As for me, I love to create new recipes, and though I have been gifted with the ability to create recipes, my powers are not nearly as refined as hers. When I create a new recipe, I always send it to Mamma Silvana for her stamp of approval! 

 

Mamma Mangia's sourdough pasta

 

Your recipes often include unique twists, like sourdough pasta. How do you balance innovation with tradition?

Our sourdough pasta recipe was the first recipe to really go "viral." It was during the pandemic when everyone was experimenting with sourdough. 

The reason we created the recipe was for personal reasons. Both Mamma Silvana and I have dealt with different health issues that have required adjustments in our diet. As Italians, giving up pasta is always the hardest. In our journey, we learned that if we were to make sourdough pasta and ferment it with an active sourdough starter for 72 hours, it would reduce the gluten content by nearly 90% and also add nutritional benefits. So we ran with it, creating a "healthier," more digestible, and yet completely delicious version of homemade Italian pasta. 

We recognize it is not "traditional," but sometimes, you have to move from tradition slightly in order to continue to eat the things you love. Many recipes that we have shared with a unique twist are born from needing a "better-for-you" option.

 

How do you engage with your audience?

We are truly blessed with the best audience that only gives us positivity and encouragement. Many of our followers are looking to us for inspiration and recipes to connect to their culture and ancestors. Though we have been hesitant at times to share our family recipes that feel so special to us, we are often reminded by our audience about the way in which our recipes have blessed their lives. We have received dozens of messages from people who have searched for lost recipes from their parents, grandparents, or great-grandparents with no luck, only to find that our recipes are almost identical. This type of feedback helps to remind us of our "why."  

 

Can you share a particular achievement you are especially proud of?

The biggest achievement for us isn't the number of followers or sales received but rather the connections that have been made. Mamma Mangia has brought us closer together as a family as we cook and create together and has introduced us to many members of our audience who have become real-life friends. 

 

What are your future plans?

The first family heirloom cookbook we made was our inspiration for Mamma Mangia, but it is not something we can sell to the public as it contains a lot of personal information and recipes that aren't ours to share. That being said, we have had such a demand from our audience for a similar product that they can purchase. We are currently working on a cookbook with all of Mamma Silvana's recipes. It will include over 150 recipes, high-quality photos, personal stories, and hundreds of cooking tips and tricks throughout. We are hoping to launch the cookbook in the spring of 2025.

 

An heirloom cookbook project started the journey.

 

What advice would you give someone looking to start their own food blog or recipe website?

Understand your "why!" Why are you doing it? What are you hoping the outcome will be? Who do you want to connect with or inspire? People love real life and real people. If you know your "why" and have a fire within you, others will want to follow along and learn from you. Be genuine, be yourself, and remember your "why." 

 

What do you hope your audience takes away?

We have always wanted to inspire others to start their own journey in connecting with their family and loved ones through food. It doesn't matter what your ethnicity and/or background is. Your family has a story to tell. 

Food and recipes have a unique way of telling their story through smell, taste, and tradition that can not be found in any other form. It is our hope that we will influence others to have a desire to gather their family and loved ones around their table and share their love and traditions through food. 

 

 

Mamma Silvana and Solae' enjoy a pizza.

 

 

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Between Sicily's cannoli, cakes, and gelato-stuffed brioche, the island offers plenty of tempting sweet treats. But not everyone can partake.

 

Kasia Bos, who suffers from gluten intolerance, was tired of the lack of choices for people like herself. So, in 2022, she and her partner, co-founder Diego Di Giovanni, launched Terved, a Catania, Sicily-based company committed to not only meeting dietary needs but also exceeding taste and quality expectations. 

I caught up with Kasia and Diego to discuss Terved and its inspiration, the challenges the young entrepreneurs faced, how they balance tradition with necessary ingredients, how they build relationships, what Terved's future looks like, and their advice for aspiring entrepreneurs.

 

 

What inspired Terved?

Kasia: I had gotten prescribed a gluten-free diet because of problems with my intestine. So my doctor advised me to go gluten-free, and from there, it started this new world of gluten-free. 

Diego met me a little bit after I had started this gluten-free diet. We were both young, and we wanted to do something. We thought, "Why don't we do something about the problem many people have, which is that it's still impossible to be gluten-free?"  We turned it into something productive and beautiful.  

 

Tell us about your product offerings.

Diego: We focus on the more regional and typical products, such as the cannoli and brioche we use for ice cream. But then the demand and the market also asked us for more and different products. We also developed products such as donuts that are more international. We made muffins and mini tarts with pistachio and apricot jam. Right now, we are trying to evolve and adapt to the market demand to satisfy and cover all the possible scenarios that we can. 
 

What challenges did you face starting your business?

Diego: We started very young. I was 22, she was 18. So, we both didn't have much life experience to deal with failures. So the first nos were very hard to take. Also, it was difficult to co-work and have two minds, two ideas that had to meld together at the end of the day. 

The most difficult, from my point of view, is the financial part because business knowledge is something that we managed to get from studying from other people as well as from experimenting, from failures, and so on. But the financial part is tricky because to make money, you have to invest money. And when you are so young, you don't have money. No one wants to give you money. 

 

Terved Co-founders Kasia Bos and Diego Di Giovanni

 

What is your process for developing products?

Kasia: When we started, we thought, "We are in Italy. He's Sicilian. So what can we do? Where can we start? What do people need?" So we came up with the concept of cannoli and the brioche, the most typical Sicilian products you can find. 

We already had a small community of people who followed us during the beginning of our journey. So we would try recipes with them. People who had celiac connected with us, and we asked them, "Is this an interesting product? Could this be a better product?" We did a little quiz. 

The difficult part was actually making that product happen. So we went from making recipes at home to going to specialists who could actually make those products last. From there, it's just been about spreading the product as much as possible. 

 

How do you ensure there's no cross-contamination?

Diego: All the products are individually packed. So even when they arrive from the laboratory to the final destination, we make sure that they are one hundred percent safe.

  

Kasia: At the end of the day, it goes from the laboratory to the hands of the consumer without getting touched by anyone. 

 

How do you balance traditional recipes with the need for gluten-free ingredients?

Diego: Of course, the flavor is not the same because when you change the flour, you change both taste, texture, the proofing of the product, the softness, the air—a lot of things. But our goal is to make a gluten-free version that reminds us of the traditional products. We are trying to develop a product that is as close as possible to the original one. 

 

How do you build relationships with clients, customers, partners, and distributors?

Diego: It depends on where these customers are located, but let's say that from a broader vision, we have a first approach on email. We use LinkedIn a lot. We introduce our company and what we do and send a catalog and a company presentation. Then, if we make a call, for example, to discuss a possible partnership, we send samples. If they're here in Sicily, we go meet them.

In our packaging, we include a little bit of our story and how we started. On social media, we try to entertain and talk about, for example, what we ate for dinner. We also try to attend events and fairs so we can meet customers. 

 

What's been the most rewarding part of this journey?

Kasia: For me, at least, it's actually having a face-to-face with the final consumer. When the actual client comes to you or writes a message to you and says, "Oh my God, your brioches are amazing!" 

The whole point of doing this is connecting with those people. In person, it's even better because once or twice, we were walking on the street, and out of nowhere, someone popped up and said, "Please never stop. You're amazing!" 

Diego: That's very heartwarming and beautiful. I would also like to add that I was astonished when a company reached out to us and told us they would like to bring our cannoli to Boston. 

We started from Catania, a small city of 200,000 citizens. Now, we are bringing our products to Boston, Australia, and the UK, and it happened so fast. We have another possibility for Miami and another company in Boston. Having your product so far away from your hometown is almost unbelievable.

 

Terved brioches on display at a supermarket.

 

What does Terved's future look like?

Kasia: We want to create more products and products that maybe haven't been seen before. We want to create more options. Right now, our focus is on supermarkets to really get in the hands of as many people as possible with higher quality products.

 

Diego: We have so many products that we could create. Another thing that we are trying to do is bring to supermarkets not just another gluten-free company but a premium gluten-free company. Our goal is to create a variety that is not currently in the market, at least here in Italy.

 

Kasia: The U.S. is way more advanced in that supermarkets carry 20 different kinds of gluten-free breads and 50 types of cookies. In Italy, it's really bad. You see two companies where there should be more options.

 

What advice do you have for aspiring entrepreneurs?

Diego: We started with no experience, with no money, with nothing. We were very naive and a little bit reckless.

Surround yourself with experienced people. Try to listen because we gained knowledge from people who knew the business and knew more about life. Don't be scared of losing friends or sleep. Eventually, it's all going to be rewarded.

 

What experience do you want for your customers?

Diego: We just want them to feel listened to, not to be excluded.

Kasia: This is why we started, right? For them not to feel excluded. So when they eat, it's not like they have to think about it. It is just there. We want people to feel at ease.

 

 

 

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Kendra Matthews is on a mission to feed kids better and make mealtime easier for overextended parents. As a busy entrepreneur with two sons, she's got first-hand experience juggling responsibilities and ensuring a proper supper lands on the table.

 

The founder and CEO of San Diego-based Hidden Foods attributes her passion for food to her Sicilian side. Her father's family has roots in Palermo and Grotte. 

She recently took time out to chat about her background and journey to Hidden Foods, the challenges she faced along the way, product offerings, and more. 

 

 

What is your background?

My dad is fully Sicilian, and my mom is fully English, so I'm about 50/50. It was always a joke between my sister and me: Italian is a huge part of just who we are, and it's this weird pride, even though we're here in America. My mom got us the DNA test, and we said, "We don't want to take it. What if it turns out that we're not?"

 

So, I had it sitting on my counter for probably two years, and I finally sucked it up and took it. And it came back half Italian (40% Sicilian and the rest from other parts of Italy).

 

As a Sicilian, besides the fact that we use our hands a lot, cooking ends up being a really big part of my family and who we are. At the table, my kids laugh and say, "Oh, the Sicilians, they all just say mangia!" And I say, "Well, then, mangia, sit, and eat your food."

 

When I talk to the kids, if we go on a trip, my first question is, "How are you? What did you eat?" Because I think we're constantly trying to feed people, and that is a very strong part of who I am.

 

Share your journey to Hidden Foods.

Deep down, I'm an entrepreneur at heart. I consider that a sickness because it just doesn't stop. You're just like, "What's the next thing?" It's always been food. 

 

I started with tea, which I was very passionate about. Then, I moved on to cake truffles, which became really popular. Then, I had a macaron company, which kind of led to this.

 

Baking and sweets and pastries are something that I have always been passionate about, but I have two kids: a 7-year-old and a 10-year-old. My younger one got really picky about eating, and he still is.

 

I always make homemade sauce. We don't eat anything out of a jar. I make ragù that will sit for a day or two, and then we freeze it, and that's what we eat all year. Those are the things that he liked. It was getting to the point where it was like, "Well, I don't have time, so here's something out of a jar."

It made me feel guilty, so I decided I could do it on my own and bottle it so we could have it. I would also stick some stuff in it to make up for the lack of nutrition that they were getting in other places.

 

For me, it's about flavor because I want them to shape their palettes. I can give you chicken all day and a piece of broccoli, and I can say, "Yeah, that's really healthy." But if you don't have a variety of foods you're tasting and experiencing, you're not going to grow up to appreciate those different flavors, which I think is a really big deal for an Italian.

The project actually started with ravioli. I had created pasta that had nutritional value in it, so it had some protein, and it had different powdered veggies in it. And then I thought, Well, I can double it up, and then I can put some really good ingredients in the ravioli.

 

The kids were loving it, they were eating it, and then I coupled it with the sauce and put it all together. 

 

What were some of the challenges you faced?

The manufacturing process for all of this is really hard because once it leaves your kitchen, it's got to go to a really grand scale. You get into this problem where, first of all, you're too small for somebody who has the machinery to be able to do it. Second, when you decide, "Okay, we're going to do that huge gigantic run, and we're going to test it out," some of it just becomes a little complicated. To get the right flavor, it has to cook this way, or it has to do this, and they said, "That's not going to happen. It's going to be all thrown in a pot, and that's just what it is."

 

So it was kind of a balance to figure out, "Does this work?" I ran into so many roadblocks with it. My husband and I sat down and just said, "Well, let's just start with this sauce and see if we can get that made."

 

That, in general, was really, really difficult, too, because if you understand anything about products on a grocery shelf, they have to be obviously shelf stable. But in order to do that, they have to maintain a certain pH. When you stick all those healthy vegetables in it, the pH goes through the roof, which is why it's healthy. Typically, tomato sauce is fine because it's got that acidity to it. And if it's all done, the only thing you're worried about is botulism, which is not small, but that can be something you can fix.

 

We've got pureed beets, carrots, kidney beans, and spinach in there. And so it was really complicated. I talked to a ton of different manufacturing sites, and they all looked at it and said, "Nope, we're not touching that. The pH is way too high."

We ran across somebody who said, "Listen, we'll entertain this." They were able to help me with that one. We actually have five sauces; it's a really big process to get these done.

 

I don't want to go down the refrigeration road. Our mission is to really make it easier to feed families better. So by having those shelf-stable products, they last longer, and people can take them with them.  

After a year, we launched the marinara sauce, and I also had a meat sauce. Our family sauce is really good. But that's been a really big challenge because then the USDA gets involved and wants to tear everything apart, and it has nothing to do with your ingredients. It's solely your label.

 

I would say "no added sugar" and then "zero added sugar," and they'd say, "No, you can't." Then I'd go back, and they'd say, "Add not a low-calorie food." And I'd say, "Well, it's not really high-calorie, but OK, I'll write that on there." Then you'd submit it, and the next time, they'd come back and say, "Now remove that." I said, "But you told me to put it on there."

 

After a year, we finally got it approved.

 

School children are being served Hidden Foods muffins.

 

Where can we find Hidden Foods?

We're on Amazon and sell through our website. We're in a lot of stores in San Diego, like Seaside Market and Frazier Farms. We're also in some Sprouts down here. We just launched in Lazy Acres up in Los Angeles, and it's kind of a test. Then, we'll branch out to their other stores, just slowly growing that way.

 

We also have a line that we're working on with the school districts. Again, my goal is really to feed kids better. A lot of their nutrition—in California, especially—comes from the school. So they go in, they have breakfast, and they have lunch. There are also a lot of rules coming down from Sacramento about what these kids can eat—reducing added sugar products and no fake dyes.

 

We're slotted as a perfect match for the schools. So, right now, we're working with them to make sure we can create some long-lasting, pre-made, and prepackaged products. We just launched some muffins, and so the kids are getting those at school for breakfast. 

 

You've mentioned sauce and muffins. Tell us about your pancakes.

We have four flavors for pancakes. We have homestyle, chocolate chip, cinnamon churro, and gluten-free. All of those include our vegetable blend, so it's essentially your greens for the day, as well as high protein and oat flour, flaxseed, and no added sugar. Those are sweetened with monk fruit and banana powder. You just add water. Again, we're just trying to make it easy for families.

 

What is your goal with your products?

I'm on a mission to make sure that people are fed better. And how this kind of started was just being so sick of kids having cancer and being sick. The lack of nutrition is so much more than even being physically sick: There are attention deficits and behavior problems and patterns. A lot of that comes from that lack of nutrition. So, my goal was really to feed these kids better. It also needs to be easy because I think parents are saying, "Yeah, I want to feed my kid better, but I'm going for the easier one. I'm going for what's in a jar."

 

My goal is to partner with moms and say, "We've got your back. Here's some really good stuff, and let's branch out."

 

I would like this to be everywhere. I want parents to rely on us, trust our brand, and say, "If it's Hidden Foods, it's got to be good. " I know I'm going to give them the nutrition that they need.

 

So obviously, to get in stores everywhere would be my goal, but also to really break through school districts because I feel that is also something that when it's in front of a kid, they'll eat, and then they move on. And I don't need this to be, "Oh my gosh, this is the best thing I've ever tasted." I mean, I would hope that it is, and I think so. But really, I want them to just eat it and move on. If they don't stop and say, "Oh, what is this? Why is it different?" and they eat it, that is a huge win because of all the nutritional benefits in it. 

 

 

 

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A thick and spongy savory tomato pie, sfincione is the grandmother of what Americans call Sicilian pizza. As is typical in Western Sicily, my nonna would top hers with anchovies, onions, breadcrumbs, and cheese. We looked forward to enjoying it with our Christmas Eve feast, always saving some room for her cookies.

Nonna rarely wrote her recipes; when she did, there were never any measurements. Luckily, folks like Italian-American siblings Michele and Joe Becci of Our Italian Table are doing their part to preserve food traditions. Their recipe for sfincione is approachable, and the result resembles what Nonna would have prepared.

I recently corresponded with Michele and Joe, who shared their background and connection to this recipe, how sfincione differs from pizza, favorite side dishes, and more.

 

 

Tell us about your background.

We are two siblings who grew up as second-generation Italian Americans in the small town of Phillipsburg, New Jersey—a place that welcomed a large influx of Italian immigrants in the early 20th century. Our love of cooking began in our childhood, helping our mother in the kitchen. Standing on chairs, we would roll pasta dough, shape gnocchi, or (gently) stir the simmering pot of passatelli. Together, we rolled meatballs, kneaded dough, helped make the sauce, and fried eggplant. Our mother was forever sharing her specialties with family and neighbors, near and far. Thankfully, she passed on her passion for cooking to us.

 

Our grandparents emigrated from Sicily, Naples, and Marche in Italy. Their arduous journey across the sea to a new life only deepened their desire to continue the traditions and rhythms of their former lives in a new land and build a life surrounded by the love of family. Growing up, large family gatherings were the norm, and good food was the foundation for a lifetime of memories filled with laughter and love. 

This celebration of family, tradition, and Italian culture is at the heart of everything we do, which is why we first launched Our Italian Table, our food blog, over 15 years ago. Working from opposite coasts—Joey in California and Michele in Pennsylvania—our blog has brought us great joy, allowing us to share our passion with our readers. Today, Our Italian Table has grown to include our annual magazines (our most recent issue, "From Sicily, With Love," is over 100 pages dedicated to the land of our maternal grandparents, Sicily) and our recently launched podcast, A Tavola, along with an online shop that features carefully curated Italian products from artisans we know and love—items we proudly use in our own homes and kitchens here in the U.S.   

 

What is your connection to this recipe?

Our mother's family is from Santo Stefano di Camastra in Sicily. Many from her village immigrated to the town in the U.S. where we grew up, Phillipsburg. There was a bakery called the New York Italian Bakery, an institution that had been around for over 40 years. We can still remember how excited we would be when we would jump in our Dad's station wagon for a trip to the bakery. The aromas in the bakery were magical—the smell of the piles and piles of breads and Italian cookies gleaming behind the glass display cases—but our favorite display case was the one that held the trays of Sicilian pizza, oily and thick and tomatoey. Whenever our parents allowed us to have a slice of pizza, they would scoop a slice out of the pan and hand it over to us, oily against the parchment paper. We were made to wait until we were back in the car to eat our prized possession, and we devoured it.  

 

How is sfincione different from pizza?

Sfincione, often called "Sicilian pizza," is quite distinct from the classic pizza most people know. It's not the thin, crisp-crusted Neapolitan or New York-style varieties. Sfincione has a thick, soft, and fluffy crust, more akin to focaccia. It's baked in a rectangular pan, which helps create a thick, spongy base that's both light and substantial. The name "sfincione" itself hints at its texture, derived from the Latin word spongia, meaning "sponge." 

 

The dough is covered with a mix of onions sautéed with tomatoes, anchovies, and breadcrumbs, which add a bit of savory crunch. Cheese—usually grated caciocavallo or pecorino—is sprinkled over the top. The anchovies, onions, and robust cheese provide a savory punch, while breadcrumbs on top add texture and a rustic finish. Oregano, Sicilian oregano if you can find it, is used in the sauce, giving it a unique Sicilian flavor. 

 

What are some popular sfincione side dishes?

We love to serve sfincione as part of an antipasti board that includes maybe a simple mix of briny olives, cured meats, and cheeses. When served as a meal, we love to serve a bright, lemony salad, perhaps peppery arugula dressed lightly with lemon juice and shaved Parmigiano. A classic Sicilian fennel and orange salad also works beautifully to add brightness alongside the deep flavors of the sfincione. Occasionally, when we have a larger crowd, we might also serve a platter of seasonal grilled vegetables such as zucchini, eggplant, and peppers drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and red wine vinegar. 

 

What do you hope readers take away from your recipe?

We want readers to come away with a sense of Sicily's culinary soul and an appreciation for the simplicity and depth of flavors that define traditional Sicilian dishes. Sfincione isn't just a "Sicilian pizza"—it's a rustic, satisfying dish with a story, a connection to Sicilian street food culture, and a distinct personality… a taste of Sicily in its most comforting form, a reminder of the island's ability to transform humble ingredients into something memorable and delicious. We also hope that our readers will feel inspired to make sfincione at home and to gather and enjoy it like in Sicily, where sfincione is meant to be savored slowly, with friends and family, in the warmth of community.

 

>>Get Our Italian Table's sfincione recipe here!<<

 

 

 

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It's the quintessentially Christmas image: chestnuts roasting on an open fire or, for most modern cooks, in the oven. Just visualizing it calls to mind the earthy aroma, something commonly encountered on the streets of Palermo this time of year. There, le caldarroste are served as street food dusted in snowy white salt in paper-wrapped cones.

Pennsylvania-based blogger Anna Maria Lucchese has fond memories of Sicily's roasted chestnuts and shared her experience in a post on her blog, Solo Dolce.

 

Born and raised in Sicily, Anna Maria studied biology at university and earned her doctorate in genetics and oncology in Italy. For study-related reasons, she and her husband moved to the United States. They intended to stay for a short time, but that didn't happen. Today, both work in Philadelphia in the field of research, and in Anna Maria's free time, she dedicates herself to her blog, where she explores Italian cuisine in depth.

 

Anna Maria recently shared her experience with roasted chestnuts and tips for recreating the flavor at home.

 

 

What makes roasted chestnuts a popular street food in Sicily?

Chestnuts are a seasonal delight because they are harvested in the fall. They are available throughout the cooler months, so they are ideal, especially during Christmas. Roasted chestnuts are a common treat at family get-togethers and regional celebrations, bringing back fond memories of childhood for many Sicilians.

 

How are roasted chestnuts traditionally prepared and served by vendors in Palermo?

The roasted chestnut vendors in Palermo are truly unique. They create a captivating scene, surrounded by fragrant smoke rising from a metal cylinder. Inside, glowing embers rest at the bottom, with chestnuts placed on top. As the chestnuts roast, they're often sprinkled with salt, which interacts with the heat to create a fine, white powder that resembles powdered sugar. This visual and sensory experience draws in passersby, inviting them to indulge in this traditional winter snack. The vendors' lively presence and the warm aroma of roasting chestnuts evoke a sense of nostalgia and community, making them a beloved part of Palermo's winter streets.

 

What memories do you associate with roasted chestnuts during the Christmas season in Sicily?

My memories take me back to my time in Sicily, in my hometown, during the winter holidays. I remember walking along the Corso, the main street of the town, with friends. We would stop by the vendors to buy warm, roasted chestnuts, which became our delicious snacks as we strolled. The warmth of the chestnuts in our hands and the comforting aroma filled the air, creating a sense of joy and togetherness. Each bite was a reminder of the simple pleasures of winter, and those moments spent with friends made the season truly special.

 

What are some tips for preparing roasted chestnuts at home?

Buy chestnuts (Look for fresh, shiny chestnuts that are firm to the touch. Avoid any with blemishes or holes) in the supermarket, cut them, sprinkle them with salt, and bake them at 450 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 to 40 minutes. Or if you have a chestnut pan (or a heavy skillet with holes), you can roast them on the stovetop over medium heat, shaking occasionally, for about 15 to 20 minutes.


Photo by Solo Dolce's Anna Maria Lucchese

 

What do you hope readers will take away from this recipe and your blog?

I hope readers will take away a deeper appreciation for the simple pleasures of cooking and enjoying traditional foods like roasted chestnuts. My blog aims to celebrate the rich culinary heritage of Italy, sharing not just recipes but also the stories and memories associated with them.

 

 >>Get Anna Maria's le caldarroste recipe here!<<

 

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One of my favorite Sicilian treats as a child was torrone, a nut-filled nougat candy my Sicilian grandmother always had on hand, especially for the holidays.

I recently encountered a recipe for torrone in the pages of Giovanna Bellia La Marca's Sicilian Feast, recently reissued as an expanded edition of her 2004 book. 

"Torrone is such a part of Sicilian cuisine that no holiday goes by without it," says Giovanna. "It's delicious. Children love it; adults love it. So it's just part of our culture and kind of a symbol of Sicily."

Giovanna La Marca, who came to the U.S. from Sicily when she was 10 years old, also runs the Kitchen on the Cliff YouTube channel. The name is a nod to the fact that her kitchen is actually on a cliff overlooking Manhattan. 

Giovanna shared with me the history of torrone, how the Sicilian recipe differs from that of mainland Italy, and how this nougat treat has become a Sicilian symbol.

 

 

What is torrone?

Torrone is a nougat candy, and in Sicily, we make it with almonds and sugar or almonds and a combination of sugar and honey. 

It is very much tied to our history. Since antiquity, many people have invaded Sicily. There were the Greeks who made settlements all over Sicily, and they, of course, brought the trees.

The myth is that a boat carrying almond trees and grapevines was going to Puglia, the heel of Italy, which is very close to Greece. And the wind blew it to Sicily. 

But the sweets! Sicily is quite famous for its sweets. One of the great sweets is torrone, and another one is marzipan, which are little sculptures of fruits that are so lifelike that when you see them in the window of the pasticceria, it is just amazing to see the likeness and the artistry with which they are made. 

To achieve that, Sicilians already had almonds, but the sugar was brought by the Arabs around 700, and they planted sugarcane in Sicily.

An interesting side note of that is that the sugar industry in Sicily was dominated by the resident Jews. There was quite a large Jewish colony in Sicily, and they developed the sugar industry. 

Now unfortunately, in 1492, when Spain expelled the Jews, they expelled them not only from their own country but from all the places that they controlled as well, which included Sicily. The Sicilians had no quarrel with the Jews. In fact, the Jewish people really ran the sugar industry. So they waited six months. They didn't want to expel them. But Spain prevailed. And that ended the sugar industry in Sicily, which is a little-known fact but a very interesting one, I think.

 

How does Sicilian torrone differ from torrone found elsewhere in Italy?

Well, the typical torrone of Italy is white, and it's made with a meringue of sugar and almonds and sometimes other nuts and sometimes bits of citron and so on. It is poured on edible rice paper, and that's how it's served and cut. 

In Sicily, it is really almonds surrounded by crunchy caramel. It's very, very crunchy. It's actually a brittle. You can cut it with a knife, and you get all the cross sections of the almonds, which is very pretty. But you can also break it. It breaks in odd shapes, and that's another way that we usually serve it.

 

As a child, I had trouble with it because I didn't have the patience to let it melt in my mouth. I wanted to chew it, and chewing it was a job because it was really quite hard. 

I'm not talking about the soft caramel we all know. I'm talking about true caramel, which, if you pour into a greased bowl and turn the bowl upside down, you end up with a bowl made of caramel.

It's used that way for very high cuisine. In Sicily, we have two cuisines. We have home cooking, which is extremely rich and wonderful because it's influenced by all the invasions. Our invaders did contribute a great deal; they didn't just invade. They contributed to the language. They contributed to music, and they contributed to the food. 

 

What developed in Sicily in the Renaissance was a cuisine for the aristocrats. The cooks were generally trained in France, then came back to Sicily and became the monzu. These professional chefs worked for two entities: the church and the aristocracy. And that was an extraordinary cuisine. 

 

What does torrone symbolize for Sicily?

Well, it's something delicious, and sweets are generally the food that you get at festivals. They're always served at Christmas and for all of the feasts. Every Sicilian town has a patron saint and a feast for the patron saint. 

It really represents Sicily in its products because of the almonds of Sicily, particularly the city of Avola. Avola produces almonds that are called pizzuta, which means pointy almonds. They are very, very fragrant and very flavorful. That, of course, is due to the climate and the soil. In Sicily, the volcanic soil produces fruits and nuts with flavors you don't get otherwise.

Almonds are part of a very important festival in Agrigento. The almonds fruit in February. So, in February, Agrigento is filled with almond trees in bloom. The almond trees in bloom have such a heady perfume that you almost feel enveloped by the scent of the almonds and the almond trees. So there's a lot of folklore around it.

 

What was your goal with your cookbook, and what do you hope readers will take away?

I think I had very specific reasons for writing a book. I am a cook. I am a passionate cook. I have always loved to cook. I started when I was 10 years old. 

My mother cooked well, but she wasn't passionate about it. She had to have a perfectly orderly house and a floor that you could eat off of. My father did a lot of cooking, and he was very good, and I was his assistant. So if he made, say, risotto, I was the one who chopped the mushrooms. And the mushrooms for the risotto had to be about the same size as the grains of rice. So, I had a very good beginning. 

I met Italian Americans and Sicilian Americans, and they always said, "I remember my grandmother's cooking. It was so delicious. It was so wonderful. But she didn't leave any recipes, and I was too young to ask for recipes."

I heard this over and over again, so I thought, "I would like to write a cookbook that gives them Nonna's recipes."

 

My aim was to give typical and original recipes—not versions of, but the original recipes, the recipes that we all came up with and that our grandmothers cooked.

 

>>Get your copy of Sicilian Feast here!<<

 

 

 

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Named for their shape and often color resembling oranges, arancini (or arancine) are a classic Sicilian street food with origins dating back to 10th-century Arab rule. These deep-fried rice balls are typically coated with bread crumbs and filled with ragù, mozzarella, and peas, but the components vary regionally. The shape also varies: Whereas in Western Sicily, arancine appear as spheres, they are shaped conically to resemble Mount Etna in places like Catania and Messina. Even the name differs by locale. Eastern Sicilians refer to the individual balls as arancino (masculine), while arancina (feminine) is preferred in the West.

But one Palermo-based company, KePalle Arancine d'Autore, is mixing things up even further, offering menu items such as sweet arancine with Nutella, squid-ink risotto arancine stuffed with salmon, chicken curry arancine, and two vegan arancine options. 

I reached out to co-founder and co-owner Danilo Li Muli, the Palermo-based son of internationally renowned artist Gianni Li Muli and former art director at the advertising agency Gomez & Mortisia. Danilo, who started KePalle Arancine d'Autore with his wife, Eva Polanska, shared with me their inspiration, the process for creating new arancine, the arancina's role in culture, customer favorites, and what he hopes people will take away from experiencing their unique rice balls.

 

What prompted you to create KePalle and focus on reinterpreting traditional Sicilian street food?

Creativity and the desire to innovate. I am a creative by profession: I founded and managed an advertising agency for many years. Then, with my wife, we had this revolutionary idea: dedicating an entire restaurant to the Palermo arancina and offering new flavors (even for those who were previously excluded from tradition), expanding the menu with new gourmet, vegan and vegetarian recipes, and at the same time raising the quality of the product that was generally neglected commercially.

 

How do you develop new arancine flavors and recipes?

Quality is our secret. We choose only the best ingredients: Carnaroli rice, real saffron, Fior di Latte mozzarella, ham from the thigh, Sicilian meat, and seasonal vegetables. And to this, we provide a lot of attention, care, and passion in their preparation. Our arancine are prepared in the kitchen at the back of the shop throughout the day. In our shop, they are fried and served hot and crispy at any time of the day.

 

What role do arancine play in Sicilian cuisine and culture?

Arancina is the queen of Palermo street food. It is a popular and noble product. You can eat it every day as street food for a quick lunch or dinner, but in Palermo, it is also a great tradition to eat arancine for the Feast of Santa Lucia on December 13. December 13 is also KePalle's birthday. Double party for us! 

 

Which arancine flavors are favorites among your customers?

Our customers love all our arancini, probably because they are good! But the real plus is the quality. It is not for nothing that we have called them Arancine d'Autore. Our customers feel the difference and appreciate it.

 

If I really had to rank them, I would certainly put the Eat Parade, the traditional arancine with meat and butter, in first place. They would be followed by the arancine with mushrooms and vegetables loved by vegans and vegetarians and the gourmet ones: Rosalia, the arancine with squid-ink risotto and stuffed with salmon, and the Arancina stuffed with mortadella, buffalo mozzarella, and pistachio grains.

 

Tell us about your vegan arancine and how they compare to traditional ones.

It is important to us to be able to meet the needs of all our customers. Vegans and vegetarians are a very important category for us. We respect their ethics, and that is why we want the tradition of arancine to accommodate their tastes as well. We have several dedicated flavors on our menu, interpreting traditional and new recipes. The most popular are the arancina with mushrooms and porcini mushrooms (also loved by those who are not vegan because it is a real "walking" risotto) and the arancina with a vegetable sauce that interprets the classic meat arancina in a vegan way.

 

Can you share a memorable experience or story related to arancine?

The best memory I have of KePalle is certainly linked to the day of our tenth birthday, last December 13. On this occasion, we wanted the gift not to be destined for us but also for our city. For this reason, we organized a charity initiative, donating all proceeds of St. Lucia's Day (the most conspicuous of the year) to the pediatric hospital of Palermo to purchase important medical equipment for the rare diseases department. Doing good for others makes us feel good, and KePalle is always good for us.

 

How does KePalle preserve and promote Sicilian culinary heritage?

KePalle has revolutionized the tradition of arancini—not in a negative sense, but in a positive sense because we have contributed to enriching and carrying it forward. We have added new recipes that are now part of the city's culinary heritage, but above all, we have enhanced the authentic recipe of arancine.

 

KePalle offers a product of the highest level commercially, equal to what grandmothers and mothers prepare at home and comparable to that of a gourmet restaurant. We use authentic and high-quality products that other competitors did not use before and still do not use today: Carnaroli rice, real saffron, Fior di Latte mozzarella... We have revolutionized the arancini precisely because we have rediscovered it, bringing it to its maximum splendor.

 

What do you hope people experience with your arancine?

Those who come to the store to eat our arancine experience a unique, immersive experience that involves all 5 senses. The authentic location, the visual impact of the counter with the arancine, the scents that are released, the story of the product, and, finally, the wide variety of flavors and recipes. It is a feeling that cannot be described and that can only be experienced. All our customers know this, and you can feel it in their expressions when eating, as well as the satisfaction you can feel in their words and in the thousands and thousands of reviews they leave us.

 

 

 

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There is much dispute over the origins of almonds. Some say the fruit tree first grew in Central Asia between Iraq, Iran, Turkmenistan, Afghanistan, and Kurdistan or in eastern Asia between Uzbekistan and Mongolia. Others cite botanical and archaeological evidence to point to West Asia, particularly the Levant region. Wherever the almond originated, it clearly spread to the shores of the Mediterranean into northern Africa and southern Europe, including Italy. 

One almond in particular, the Avola almond of Sicily, is highly regarded for its applications in pastry-making and was traditionally sugared for use in wedding confetti. Darker, thinner, and stronger tasting than a California almond, it comes in four varieties: Pizzuta, Fascionello, and Romana or Corrente d'Avola.

 

Sally Giannetti, owner of Florence-based Giannetti Artisans, carries Pizzuta almonds, named for their pointed and sharp profile. She took time out to share more about this unique variety.

 

 

Tell us about Giannetti Artisans and how you got started.

I'm originally from Chicago, where I was born and raised. My parents are both Italian, and they were born in Italy. They emigrated to Chicago about 50 years ago.

My mom always brought me back to Italy when I was a kid because my grandparents were here. So, aside from my family in the United States, I was exposed to the country, the traditions, and the culinary "habits." I grew up speaking Italian in my house. It was my first language. 

I hated coming to Italy when I was younger, but then I started college and majored in international business and Italian. My university offered study abroad programs in Florence. It was required that I do at least one study abroad program in a four-year term. 

So, I came to Florence, fell in love, and said I'd move to Florence after I graduated college, and that's what happened.

After several years of working various sales jobs and making a lot of money for others, I wanted to start my own business and make some money for myself! After giving a business plan a lot of thought, I like the idea of somehow connecting the two countries together: my family origins and my place of birth. I thought food was a great way to do that, and I said, "You know what? In the United States, there isn't real gourmet Italian food. A lot of the products that are on the shelves out there are made in the United States with an Italian flag label on them, and they really aren't Italian." So, I said, "I want to start importing true Italian food."

I created my own label and logo. I started from zero. I was not in this business or this industry. I started online, and I created my website. Then, I was selling on Amazon, which I still do, and it grew slowly. 

I started sourcing from different regions in Italy, and I was very picky about choosing the small artisans. I don't buy any products on the grocery shelves here. I look for small- to medium-sized companies that make small-batch products, and that's what is in my product line. It's all Italian. Nothing is made elsewhere. The ingredients are all 100% Italian.

 

What are Avola almonds?

Avola is where they make wine, so it's a very arid territory. It's near Syracuse, and it's a small town located inland but close to the coastline. There is a huge concentration of almond trees. The particular characteristic of the almonds grown in this area is the fact that they blossom in January. This is because this particular area is a microclimate protected by the mountains and the Mediterranean Sea that keeps the temperature mild-mannered. The soil is extremely dry making the almond production environmentally sustainable since almonds do not need a large quantity of water. A special variety called the "Pizzuta" contains a higher quantity of healthy fat, making it an important protagonist of many nutritional values. It is also famous because years ago, it was used to make the confetti for Italian weddings due to its delicious flavor and physical traits since it has a long and thin oval shape to it. 

The Avola almond (unlike the California almond, which contains a lesser quantity of oils and tends to taste rather bland) contains a high concentration of oils. 

 

How else do Avola almonds differ from California almonds?

Obviously, the quantity makes the difference, even in price, because California almonds are easier to get and have a higher production quantity. California almonds are used more for mass production, whereas Avola varieties are used more specifically for making pastries and small-batch products.

 

The taste is very strong, whereas with a Californian almond, it is a bit more bland. It certainly doesn't leave you with that nutty flavor that the Sicilian one does. Some people don't like it because they're used to a more gentle-flavored almond. 

 

 
Sicilian almond granita

How is the Avola almond used?

In Italy, they use it to make pastries. There's a drink that is made during the summer, chilled almond milk, and it's made at the bar. Or they make a granita using Sicilian almonds and adding sugar to it. Sometimes, they toast the almonds; sometimes, they don't, depending on what it is used for. The more you toast them, the stronger the flavor is. They use it to make marzipan and gelato.

 

Fruit-shaped marzipan (frutta martorana) on display in Acireale 

What do you hope people appreciate about Avola almonds?

I think the taste—they have a very distinct flavor. Like I said, not everyone likes them if they're used to a bland-tasting almond.

This is the reason why I started this business. If you purchase chestnut flour from a grocery store anywhere in the United States, it won't have the same taste as the chestnut flour that I sell, for example.

What is done in processed foods with these large mass-production companies is that they don't dry or roast the fruits on wood embers but rather in huge industrial ovens. Nuts are dried in these ovens for 8 or 10 hours rather than on wood embers for 40-plus days. The processing method makes the difference. Large multinational companies need to cut their costs and produce high quantities. It makes the product cheaper and perhaps of lesser quality, but it also takes away the authentic taste of that nut or fruit.

 

If you taste some of my chestnut flour, it has a strong smoky taste as opposed to flour purchased off the grocery store shelf that tastes just like plain flour! A lot of people's palates are not accustomed to such a different flavor because most food in the United States has a standardized production method, making everything taste just about the same. 

 

The same rule applies to almonds. If you're used to eating processed foods, your palate becomes accustomed to those limited flavors; when you taste a Sicilian almond, it's strong, nutty, and just delicious. 

 

Hopefully, people will appreciate something different from their palate's "comfort zone." Those who have been exposed to authentic Italian goods will know what they're looking for, which is exactly what my business is all about.

 

 

 

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Driven by a goal of bringing Sicily's flavors and traditions to every table, Salvatore Pluchino left a career in aerospace to launch Seligo, a Brooklyn-based Sicilian food brand. Specializing in Sicilian-crafted extra virgin olive oil and unrefined pasta and chocolate, he also collaborates with gourmet shops across the U.S. to organize what he calls "pasta-making parties." The majority of these are held in New York's Catskills region. Also in the works: food and wine tours in Sicily.

"Seligo was the answer to my need to stay connected with Sicily and to share the incredible richness of Sicilian culture with others," says Salvatore.

Salvatore shared how he got started, what inspired his unrefined, traditional approach, what goes into product selection, his focus on sustainable sourcing, his plans for the future, and more.

 

 

What is your connection to Sicily?

Sicily is home and family. I am Sicilian. I was born there and spent most of my life there, and I go back whenever possible, always trying to savor different seasons. At some point, I quit my career in aerospace engineering to build a brand that would talk about Sicily and my roots. Everything I do in my life ultimately brings me back to Sicily. It's a bond so strong that it's difficult to explain in a few words, even though I now have a second home and life in New York. I always like to compare Sicily to a benevolent mermaid that attracts me, and I reject it once I get too close. When people ask about my origin, I reply that I'm Sicilian, and people often point out that I say this instead of simply saying I'm Italian. Their curiosity about the clear distinction I always point out has made me reflect deeply on my identity.

 

What inspired you to start Seligo and focus on unrefined, traditional Sicilian foods?

At a certain point in my life, I realized that food was the most effective way to share my vision of Sicily beyond its borders. Starting a brand like Seligo also made me extremely happy and helped me stay loyal to my principles. Culinary traditions are the pillars of the Sicilian lifestyle, and every aspect of life revolves around the family table.

 

The concept of unrefined food emerged when I was immersed in New York's innovative food culture. I was surrounded by many food entrepreneurs who wanted to create something new and revolutionary because there was a sense of betrayal in the food industry in general. My intuition was suggesting that I had to walk on a different path, almost opposite. In that context, I began by looking back on Sicilian gastronomic history and traditional products. 

Unrefined food sounds like an innovation, but in reality, it's just a treasure from our past. At that time, I was lucky enough to find amazing people in Sicily who were already pointing in that direction, making artisanal food products that I started to call "unrefined" because they respect certain criteria. They are not processed but rather gently transformed or minimally processed.

 

 Seligo's unrefined pasta

How do you select the specific ingredients and products featured on Seligo?

Everything starts with meeting the right people—producers committed to their work and prioritizing quality above all else. The meaning of quality is often confusing, but it becomes clear when producers eagerly show the origin of their raw ingredients, especially when they're involved in producing those ingredients themselves. Another key indicator is their knowledge of how their products will affect consumers' health. In that context, it's easy to team up with them and change some details to make a product even more unique and palatable, but always unrefined and traditional. For example, the choice of making the unrefined heirloom Sicilian chocolate in cubes instead of bars was a winning one. The grainy texture and roughness of the bar were making people skeptical. The cube, instead, made the product easier to approach, appreciate, and fun to eat.

 

 

Seligo chocolate cubes

What are the sustainable practices you employ in sourcing and producing products?

Since our inception, I've focused on sustainable practices, beginning by observing and learning from farmers, artisanal cheesemakers, and fishermen who consistently prioritize local, seasonal, and eco-friendly practices. They are the pillars of the Sicilian local food culture, and in some cases, they don't even realize they're following sustainable practices; they're simply following traditional methods in which the customer's appreciation and well-being take precedence over profit.

 

Sicilian food culture helps preserve the region's natural resources and distinctive culinary identity. With Seligo, I'm just following a path that started hundreds of years ago, and I'm learning to preserve more than innovate. Of course, there are products like extra virgin olive oil, whose quality has increased dramatically in the last decade thanks to technological innovations. In that case, brave producers have made huge investments, which has been a game-changer for the small artisanal productions, especially in the southeastern part of Sicily, where Seligo's extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) is made.

 

Seligo 100% Extra Virgin Olive Oil

What distinguishes your unrefined chocolate, pasta, and extra virgin olive oil from similar products on the market?

The answer lies in the word "unrefined." This explanation may be somewhat technical, but understanding these details is crucial for making informed choices about the food we decide to eat. 

As I mentioned, in New York, I was surrounded by numerous new food brands whose common priority was manipulating and mixing ingredients, mostly plant extracts, to create something new when, in most cases, nature has already created everything we need. 

For our heirloom pasta, the innovation was actually returning to the time when flour was simply made with ground wheat kernels, and nothing was removed. There was no bleaching and no GMO manipulation of the plants to change the gluten composition. Similarly, with our chocolate, there's no need for refining processes like tempering or additions to stabilize the product. Actually, what the industry has done was to deprive chocolate of an incredible quantity of nutrients that made cacao in the past a superfood. So, I'm giving back to Seligo's heirloom pasta and the unrefined chocolate the name they deserve. They are natural superfoods.

EVOO is somehow a special case. Because it is the ultimate unrefined product: juice extracted from olives at a very low temperature, in which the water has been removed. It's essentially a healthy potion with powerful nutrients concentrated in just a few tablespoons per day. EVOO must be protected from UV light and oxygen, so technological advancement and investment are very important.

 

How do the products offered by Seligo reflect Sicily's cultural and culinary traditions?

Sicilian cuisine is, above all, simple but the result of a complex and long evolution. Few people know Sicily's history as part of powerful kingdoms and empires that shaped the incredible depth of Sicilian culinary culture. Kings demanded that sophisticated cuisine be made with refined ingredients. From there, the common people developed their own humble recipes, often substituting meat with fried vegetables. It's a mixture of recipes originally created for royalty but perfected by the people for the people. In a way, Sicilian people have always found their freedom through food.

 

Salvatore Pluchino prepares pasta for Seligo event guests.
Photo by Joann Arruda.

How do you engage with local communities?

In the past 5 years, I've collaborated on events with wonderful gourmet shops that carry my products. They are scattered all over the U.S., but the majority of them are in New York State, mostly in the Catskills region. There's a strong sense of community there, and these establishments are becoming nodes in a larger network. People rely on them to find local products and trustworthy producers. I've started organizing intimate culinary events to demonstrate simplicity is key to a healthy lifestyle.

 

What are your future plans?

First, we're expanding our product selection. While this could be done quickly, we're taking our time to maintain quality standards. Second, we're developing food and wine tours in Sicily for small groups to showcase aspects that others haven't been able to reveal. I admire people from around the world who show interest in Sicily; we need this attention to promote our resources and boost our small economy. However, it takes a lifetime to understand Sicily and its people, and even then, one might fail to fully recognize the beauty and richness of the culture. I've taken the risk of failing, but I'm committed to this journey of living Sicilian authenticity and sharing it with others. A big help in this direction will come from my brother, who has been successfully promoting a slower way to visit and experience Sicily through bike tourism. In collaboration with his business, Sicily Bike Routes, we will start offering tours in 2025.

 

Seligo hosts food events in New York's Catskills region and beyond.

What experience do you hope customers and event attendees will take away?

I hope people will understand that daily cooking isn't something to delegate to others. It's the first act of self-love, beginning with the knowledge of proper ingredients. We can't rely solely on

the food industry, as it's primarily driven by profit. I know that may offend someone, but in the majority of cases, that is the truth. We must learn to connect with local farmers and artisanal makers, ask them questions, and learn from their perseverance and honesty, especially when the food industry pushes them toward different practices for profit's sake. As we say in Italy, "We have to put our hands in the dough" and make our own food. Through all of Seligo's initiatives, I'm humbly showing people that cooking can be fun and a great way to build new, long-lasting memories, which may be the most important in our lives.

 

 

 

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December was a busy month in the kitchen as my mother baked her way through all of her Sicilian cookie specialties. Come Christmas, we'd wrap up our finished batches and bring them to my aunt and uncle's home, where they'd be added to a nearly overflowing tray of classic holiday Sicilian confections.

 

One of the prettiest among these was the pizzelle, a thin and delicate waffle cookie dusted in powdered sugar and made with a hint of anise extract.

 

Produced in the Abruzzo region of Italy since the 15th century, this cookie, alternatively known as ferratelle, nevole, or catarrette, is also enjoyed in Sicily. The region, historically known as Abruzzi, was, after all, once part of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, so it's no wonder there are shared recipes.

 

I recently stumbled on Maria Vannelli's blog, She Loves Biscotti, where I found a pizzelle recipe. Maria's recipe looks just like the cookie I remember, but with a twist: it's plant-based. The Montreal-based dietician and content creator developed this vegan recipe for her daughter so that she, too, could enjoy Christmas cookies.

 

Maria shared her background, her favorite Italian Christmas memories, and the special significance of this recipe. Among her recipe development goals is making recipes more accessible so everyone can share holiday traditions through food.

 

 

Tell us about your background.

I was born in Montreal, Canada. My dad was born in Ripabottoni, Campobasso, in the Molise region of Italy, while my mom hails from Molinara, Benevento, in the Campania region. Both emigrated to Montreal, Canada, in the early 1950s, where they met, married, and raised a family. My dad owned an Italian grocery store, and my mom was a homemaker, which fueled my fascination with food and ultimately led me to become a dietitian. As the eldest of three, I grew up speaking Italian and had the privilege of living with my paternal grandparents, which deepened my connection to my Italian heritage.

 

What kinds of foods and recipes left a lasting impression?

I have countless "food memories" tied to family gatherings, making it challenging to pinpoint my favorites. Sunday lunches were particularly special, always filled with love, laughter, and a sprinkle of family drama, with homemade cavatelli as a staple that beautifully represented my nonna's Italian traditions. It is still my favorite pasta to this day.

The excitement and preparations for holidays like Easter and Christmas also left a lasting impression, with an abundance of mouthwatering food prepared from scratch! Whether it was my mom's lasagna or her homemade cannelloni, every dish was a labor of love.

Living with my grandparents meant our home was always open and inviting to extended family and friends. At least once a week, I would come home from school to find a great aunt or uncle visiting. This often meant a delightful spread of biscotti and Italian cookies—an amazing after-school snack and probably where my obsession with Italian cookies began.

 

Did your family bake Italian cookies for Christmas?

Yes, my mom and nonna baked a variety of Italian cookies for Christmas! Some of my favorites include almond biscotti, struffoli, chiacchiere, pizzelle, and mostaccioli, Christmas Eve fritters, and chestnut cookies, also known as calzoni di castagne. Each cookie brought its unique flavors and textures to our holiday celebrations. My mom would also make beautiful Christmas baskets filled with these cookies to share with family and friends.

 

Do you have any special memories attached to Italian Christmas foods?

Absolutely, I have so many special memories attached to Italian Christmas foods! One of my favorites is the time spent in the kitchen "baking" with my mom and nonna, especially when they would make pizzelle. They made ferratelle one at a time with a stovetop pizzelle press with long handles. 

 

Watching them work their magic was such a joy, and I can vividly remember eating the pizzelle faster than they could make them! Those moments were filled with laughter and the delightful aroma of these freshly baked treats, creating memories I'll always cherish.

 

Did your family observe Italian Christmas traditions?

Yes, my family certainly embraced Italian Christmas traditions. In the days leading up to Christmas Day, the kitchen was a lively hub of activity, with my mom and nonna bustling about, baking and making homemade pasta as they prepared for the big meal.

On Christmas Day, we would begin by attending Mass, which set a meaningful tone for the festivities. Afterward, the final touches for our festive meal would continue, with everyone pitching in to ensure everything was just right. Once the main meal was served and enjoyed, we waited for more of the extended family to visit. While we waited, there was always a spirited game of Scopa, adding to the day's excitement. Finally, we would indulge in homemade desserts and fruit platters.

These family traditions on Christmas Day created lasting memories for me. Although many loved ones, including my mom and dad, are no longer with us, we continue to cherish those wonderful memories as we celebrate with my brother, sister, and their families.

Being the eldest, my family now hosts Christmas, and I take great pride in continuing the traditions by making some of the traditional foods my mom and nonna would prepare. It's a way to honor their legacy and keep our family heritage alive. 

Inevitably, as we gather around the table, a story is shared—whether it's a food memory of past celebrations or a humorous anecdote from our family history. These stories add warmth and connection to our celebrations, reminding us of the love and joy that has always been at the heart of our Christmas gatherings. 

For the younger ones, these "stories" serve as a bridge to their heritage, connecting them to their great-grandparents and great-great-grandparents they never had the chance to meet. It's a beautiful way to keep our family history alive and instill a sense of belonging in each generation.

 

Mara cools her pizzelle on a rack to ensure they stay crisp.

 

Tell us about your pizzelle recipe. How is it similar or different from the traditional recipe?

My daughter's journey into veganism inspired my vegan pizzelle recipe. I wanted her to continue enjoying one of her favorite Italian cookies, so I adapted my nonna's traditional recipe.

Seeing her joy when she tasted these vegan pizzelles for the first time was such a heartwarming moment! This recipe combines my family's traditions and her dietary choices. After some experimentation, I found that using flaxseed creates a batter with just the right consistency, giving the pizzelles a wonderfully crisp texture without any vegan butter.

The intricate patterns that pizzelles are known for come out beautifully in this vegan version, thanks to a well-heated pizzelle press. These vegan pizzelles keep our Italian traditions alive while being perfect for plant-based diets, making it easy to enjoy this cookie together!

 

Does this recipe have special significance to you?

These vegan pizzelles hold special significance for me because they help keep our Italian family recipes alive while being perfect for plant-based diets. It means so much to enjoy this beloved cookie together as a family!

Christmas is a time for baking special cookies and treats, and pizzelles are classic Italian waffle cookies that many families make during the holiday season. By adapting this recipe, I can honor our family's culinary heritage while ensuring that everyone can partake in the joy of baking and sharing these delicious cookies. It's a wonderful way to connect with our traditions and create new memories together!

 

What is your goal when developing recipes like this?

With my pizzelle recipe, I hope at-home bakers will see that it's possible to honor tradition while accommodating different dietary needs. I want them to feel inspired to get creative in the kitchen and adapt cherished recipes to fit their lifestyles, just like I did for my daughter.

My goal in developing recipes like this is to bring people together through food, making it accessible and enjoyable for everyone. Cooking and baking should be a joyful experience filled with love and connection. By sharing this vegan pizzelle recipe, I hope to encourage others to create their own special moments and memories around the table, celebrating both tradition and creativity!

  

Maria Vannelli aka @SheLovesBiscotti

>>Get Maria's recipe for vegan pizzelle cookies here!<<

 

 

 

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Looking for a healthier take on a Sicilian cookie classic? Consider this vegan version of cuccidati from Christina Pirello of PBS's Christina Cooks: Back to the Cutting Board. Christina uses olive oil and coconut sugar to replicate traditional shortbread. The result? A guilt-free holiday indulgence to add to your dessert platter. 

 

Christina, who celebrates her birthday on December 22, has fond memories of her mother and nonna baking cuccidati and other Christmas cookies starting the day after Thanksgiving. She shared with me the secret to her twist on tradition, what this cookie means to her, essential Sicilian baking ingredients, and her goal with recipe development. 

 

Describe your cuccidati recipe. How is it different from the traditional recipe?

I love this recipe. It's different in that it's vegan. The original dough is made with eggs and butter to create a shortbread-like dough, whereas mine is made with olive oil and coconut sugar to achieve a tender dough that you can roll. And I don't decorate them with sprinkles, so I guess I break all the rules.

 

Does this recipe have special significance to you?

My whole family loved figs. My nonno had a fig tree that was so abundant that we could not use them fast enough. My husband and I love figs as well, so this is a lovely way to honor my nonno and still make a sweet and healthy dessert.

  

What are the essential ingredients for baking Italian or Sicilian, specifically?

Good flour (in my case, sprouted whole wheat, but in Italy, I use farro flour), extra virgin olive oil, pine nuts, hazelnuts, almond and vanilla extract, and orange water.

 

What is your goal when developing recipes like this?

My goal for baking is the same as my goal for cooking. I want people to think differently about food. I want people to discover the true joy of cooking for themselves and creating dishes that their loved ones can't wait to eat. And most importantly, helping people realize that cooking is simple and easy when you use fresh ingredients. Nothing beats home cooking.

 

With baking, I hope people see how easy it is to create deserts that nourish us, satisfy our sweet tooth, and don't steal our wellness.

 

>>Get Christina's cuccidati recipe here!<<

 

 

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Prized for its bulbs, leaves, and even seeds, fennel is the ultimate zero-waste food. It's also rich in fiber, potassium, vitamin C, and manganese. 

 

To explore the origins and uses of fennel, I reached out to "I Love Fruit & Veg from Europe," a global initiative that promotes the mindful consumption of high-quality European fruits and vegetables both within Italy and abroad. Their purview includes organic produce and products with PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) certifications, advocating for healthier, safer, and more sustainable diets. The initiative is supported by Italian producer organizations such as Agritalia, A.O.A., La Deliziosa, Meridia, and Terra Orti and is co-funded by the European Commission.

"I Love Fruit & Veg from Europe" Campaign Manager and Coordinator Manuela Barzan shared more about this flavorful vegetable.

 

 

Where does fennel come from originally?

Common fennel (F. vulgare) or finochietto is native to Southern Europe and countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea but has become naturalized worldwide. To the ancient Greeks, fennel was a symbol of victory, known as "marathon," lending its name to the Battle of Marathon (490 BC), where legend has it the battle unfolded in a fennel field. The Romans, too, embraced fennel as a symbol of achievement, fashioning its leaves into wreaths to crown champions in their games.

 

Florence fennel, or finocchio (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum), is a cultivated variety from the same family as wild fennel. Developed in 17th-century Italy, it resembles wild fennel at the top with similar stalks, fronds, and flowers, but at the base, it forms a white, layered structure often called a "crown." Although commonly referred to as a bulb, it's not a true bulb—its layers are crisp and carry a mild anise flavor.

 

Where and how is fennel typically grown?

India is the largest producer of fennel, which is grown for its seeds and is widely used in cooking and traditional medicine. Spanish missionaries brought fennel to North America, cultivating it in their medicinal gardens. In California, it is now commonly referred to as wild anise and grows abundantly along roadsides and in pastures across the U.S., where it is often regarded as a weed.

Bulb fennel (finocchio) is grown globally but thrives in warm, moist environments. Various cultivars can be harvested at different times based on their growing location, with the general harvest season in Italy spanning from spring to fall.

In the U.S., fennel is considered a cool-weather crop and is typically available from fall through early spring, although grocery stores stock it year-round. However, since fennel is a relatively minor crop in the U.S., any out-of-season supply not sourced from California or Arizona usually comes from a greater distance.

 

What parts of the fennel plant are used and how?

Every part can be used in some way! Bulb fennel is grown for its seeds, essential oil, fronds (leaves), and swollen leaf base, which is consumed as a vegetable. While the stalks can be tough and somewhat stringy, they are often used to flavor stocks. The fronds can serve as a garnish or be incorporated into marinades and sauces.

Common fennel is primarily cultivated for its seeds, which possess a more aromatic quality than those of cultivated fennel and have a robust flavor reminiscent of licorice.

 

What are the nutritional benefits of fennel?

Fennel is a nutrient-dense, low-calorie food that offers several health benefits, including:

• Rich in antioxidants: Fennel is abundant in various antioxidant compounds that help shield cells from damage caused by free radicals, potentially lowering the risk of chronic diseases such as cancer and heart disease.
• Colic relief: Colic, a frequent issue for newborns, can be effectively alleviated with fennel, whether used alone or combined with other herbs. Fennel seeds are commonly included in gripe water, a well-known remedy for this condition.
• Menstrual pain relief: Research indicates that fennel might lower the production of oxytocin and prostaglandin, hormones linked to painful periods.
• Enhanced digestion: Traditionally, fennel is consumed after meals in many cultures to support digestion and minimize gas. Studies suggest that fennel may help by reducing inflammation in the intestines and decreasing the levels of gas-producing bacteria. Additionally, fennel oil has been found to alleviate symptoms of irritable bowel syndrome.

 

What are some favorite Sicilian recipes that feature fennel?

• Sicilian sausage: Known as salsiccia, these sausages are made from coarsely chopped pork mixed with fennel seeds. They are typically sold in coils on skewers, weighed by the pound.
• Pasta con le Sarde: This dish is a staple in Sicilian cuisine. According to legend, when Euphemius of Messina returned from exile in Tunisia to lead a military campaign in 827, his Arab cooks created this recipe using the first ingredients they found upon landing at Mazara's harbor. The combination included wild fennel, raisins, pine nuts, and the freshest sardines available.
• Pork and fennel ragù: For this dish, start by removing the casing from Sicilian sausages, squeezing out the pork, and cutting it into pieces. Sauté shallots in a bit of wine, then add the sausage and combine it with tomato sauce and a teaspoon of fennel seeds. For a twist, you can substitute the tomato sauce with fresh ricotta. This ragù pairs beautifully with casarecce, a short, twisted pasta native to Sicily.
  
  

How do you recommend preparing fennel to bring out its best flavors?

Fennel bulbs can be prepared in various ways, including steaming, grilling, roasting, or braising. They are often served with olive oil or butter. They offer a sweet, subtly anise-like flavor that pairs especially well with fish.

To enhance the flavor of Florence fennel when using it raw in salads, slice the bulb and let it soak in ice water for an hour in the refrigerator.

Antonio Carluccio said in Complete Italian Food, "Fennel has such a sweet taste and pleasant aroma that it was often served at the end of a meal as a dessert in Italy. It is delicious in every form, raw or cooked, and indispensable in pinzimonio [tender spring vegetables served sliced and raw to dip in newly pressed olive oil with a little salt and pepper]." 

 

Can you share any tips for selecting the best fennel?

When selecting fennel bulbs, look for those that are white or pale green, firm, and heavy. Steer clear of any that appear yellowing, dry, or starting to shrivel. The fronds should be vibrant and crisp, not wilted.

As fennel ages, it becomes drier and tougher, with a more intense anise flavor. However, removing the outer layers will make the inner part less tough.

 

How do you store fennel?

Sturdy fennel bulbs and stalks can be stored in the refrigerator for an extended period. However, the fronds may lose their crispness, so it's advisable to detach them, wrap them in a paper towel or newspaper, and place them in a container in the fridge. Keeping the fronds dry can help extend their freshness.

 

What other ingredients complement fennel in recipes?

Fennel pairs especially well with fish.

The chopped young leaves can enhance the flavor of salads and various dishes, and they are commonly enjoyed alongside oranges.

 

Why should people try fennel?

Fennel is a highly versatile vegetable that can be enjoyed raw or cooked. It is easy to incorporate into various dishes without generating waste. It is rich in fiber, low in calories, and boasts numerous health benefits. 

Here are some common ways to include fennel in your meals:

• Sip fennel tea, a soothing herbal infusion made by steeping fennel seeds in hot water. This traditional remedy is often utilized to promote digestion and reduce bloating and gas. You can find it in tea bags or make it by steeping whole fennel seeds.
• Incorporate fennel into salads for an extra crunch.
• Substitute fennel stalks for celery in soups or stews.
• Wrap fennel with other root vegetables in foil and roast in the oven until tender.
• Use the bulb, stalks, and fronds as a flavorful base when roasting chicken or pork.
• For a tasty side dish, roast fennel wedges seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter.

 

 

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Potatoes are not commonly used in Sicilian cooking. For my nonna, there were two exceptions: her insalata vastasa and a main dish called gattò di patate. 

The name gattò comes from gâteau, the French word for cake. The rich dish was created in the late 18th century by French chefs who served at the Bourbon court. These so-called monsieurs or monzù were brought to the Kingdom of Naples by Queen Maria Carolina of Habsburg, wife of King Ferdinand IV of Bourbon and Marie Antoinette's sister.

 

I recently stumbled on a recipe for a gattò created by Letizia Mattiacci, a Rome-based food writer, cookbook author, and Madonna del Piatto cooking class instructor. While Letizia uses ham, this potato cake can easily be made vegetarian by substituting spinach.

 

Letizia and I spoke about her winding path from entomologist, a biologist who studies insects, to agriturismo owner and then cooking class instructor. She told me about her gattò recipe and shared tips and tricks for achieving the perfect gattò structure.

 

 

What is your background?

I was born in Perugia, but my mother was from Librizzi, Sicily. She moved to Perugia in the 1960s for work, and there, she met my father, who was a local in Umbria. So, I spent my youth there. 

 

Then, I started a Ph.D. program in insect ecology. I didn't speak a word of English, and I had never been anywhere. In the second year of my Ph.D. program, I took a plane for the first time to move to the United States for six months of lab work. And that was the first big adventure of my life.

 

I worked in a couple of labs in Washington, D.C. I worked in Beltsville, Maryland, at the USDA lab, and then I worked at Texas A&M University. I loved it so much that I went back in the second summer to finish some of the experimental work I had done there. 

After that, I started traveling for work. I found my first postdoc in the Netherlands. I met a lovely, tall, and skinny Dutch guy who, at some point later, I married. He's also an entomologist. 

We worked as scientists in the Netherlands for three years and did some field work in Zimbabwe. I worked with the United Nations in Vienna and then got a job as an associate professor in Switzerland.

By then, we both had jobs in Switzerland and spent five years there. But then we discovered that an academic career with all the politics involved was not really our calling. So we did the romantic thing: We bought a farmhouse back in Umbria, in a beautiful place above the hills of Assisi. 

We bought this place in '97, and it took us five years of hard work in Switzerland to finance the renovation. Then we went back to Umbria, had our baby, whose name is Tea, and started the adventure of innkeeping and cooking classes. 

We had friends everywhere, and I've always loved to cook. I discovered that people always ask you for a recipe when you are Italian. 

I always cooked with my mom or with my family. My Sicilian family mostly lived in Perugia, so we always had big Sicilian parties.

 

We had an agriturismo for more than 22 years, and it was marvelous, but we had to stop for many reasons. We sold it, and we moved it to Rome. 

 

Tell me about your gattò recipe.

In the south of Italy, you won't find many recipes with potatoes. The original gattò was made with some sausage there, probably some salami. But my mother made it with cheese and ham because when we grew up in the 1960s, the concept that you should have had lighter food started to come in slowly. By the mid-70s and 80s, food had probably started to be less oily and less rich, while between the 1960s and the 1970s, it was very rich. 

My mother made this lovely potato puree. She cooked the potatoes and then riced them with a vegetable mouli. She then added eggs, a bit of olive oil, and quite a bit of Parmigiano. She then layered it in an oil pan with breadcrumbs and put some cheese and some ham in it. When you cut it in the middle, you have this sort of melting cheese that comes out of it.

My daughter is also very fond of the dish, so this is a tradition. I probably make it once every three weeks or so in the winter. 

 

Can you speak to the 18th-century history of this dish?

In that period, a lot of things happened. There is a dish called sartu, a rice dish. This is another dish that comes from French chefs and has been adopted in southern cooking. For a very long time, rice was not especially popular in Italy, and it was considered a food for the sick. 

Then, the French cooks at the Bourbon court elaborated on these exotic ingredients. They realized they had to offer them in a way that reflected the local tradition. Most likely, the French wouldn't have made a rice casserole with tomato sauce, but they put tomato sauce in it, which made it more palatable for the local court.

What are some other Sicilian potato recipes you would recommend?

While in the past, potatoes were indeed not common in Sicilian cuisine, there are a handful of recipes that might be nice to consider. My grandmother Rosaria made whole-baked potatoes stuffed with meat and cheese.

 

Here are a couple more examples:

• Patate Vastase from Trapani
• Patate apparecchiate from Siracusa

 

What are some important tricks for achieving the right gattò structure?

It's important to cook the potatoes just right so they don't absorb too much water, and it's important to have good-quality potatoes. Your equivalent in the U.S. would be Yukon Gold potatoes. If you have floury potatoes, they will absorb too much water, and your gattò will not have the right texture because you want it to be fluffy. In recent years, I have microwaved the potatoes because they do not absorb any humidity except their own.

If you boil your potatoes, do so with the peel on so they don't absorb too much moisture. If you feel they've gotten a little bit overcooked, you could put them in the oven and dry them a bit after that. 

It's important to do a good job with the ricing. Just smashing will not give you a good structure. The easiest way is actually using a vegetable mouli. 

Then, you beat the eggs in there quite soon while the potatoes are still warm. You beat all the ingredients together, but what matters is the eggs because they will hold it together.

After that, you can just put it in a bowl so it doesn't stick and let it cool off. This is the most important part. It's also important to taste it for seasoning because it has to be sweet. If you use ham, it is sweet; if you use some melting cheese, it is also sweet. If you don't give it a little bit of salt and pepper and maybe a dash of nutmeg to contrast, then you will have something that is a bit bland.

  

The rest is very easy. Oil or butter your pan and sprinkle it with breadcrumbs—good breadcrumbs, not store-bought. [Get Letizia's breadcrumbs recipe here.]

To keep the shell whole, take two spoons and spoon the potato all over the top. Then, wet one of the spoons and very lightly push it down. If you start moving your potatoes around, the crust will break.

For my recipe, I normally make three layers of potatoes, so you also have to decide how many potatoes to use for that size of pan. I like to use a Pyrex circular pan, but it works in many different pans. 

 

Then, I layer my cheese and ham. I like to use Scamorza, but it's not easy to find in the United States. A good-quality cow's milk cheese that melts easily without becoming watery is ideal. 

I make two layers and then sprinkle again with breadcrumbs, a little bit of Parmigiano, and a few dots of butter. 

 

What do you hope at-home cooks will take away from your gattò recipe?

This is an easy family food. It is good the day you make it and gives you good leftovers. You can make it for a party. It is a very easy, practical, and inexpensive dish to make nowadays. And it makes children very happy.

After a certain age, we worry about calories and blah blah. But it is good food; I don't know anybody who doesn't like it.

 

>>Get Letizia's gattò recipe here!<<

 

 

 

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My Sicilian mother always says that a meal isn't complete without a side salad. Her green bean, tomato, and potato salad remains one of my favorites. The recipe was inspired by my nonna's own insalata vastasa. 

 

In true Sicilian tradition, you worked with what you had; if you didn't have potatoes, you could still enjoy a green bean and tomato salad. Sometimes, we'd have it with just potatoes and beans. 

 

The recipe was so popular at family gatherings that I included a mention of it in my first novel. 

 

I was delighted to find a similar insalata vastasa recipe on A Quaint Life, a blog run by Roxanna Shadd. Roxanna and I recently chatted about her version of this classic Sicilian salad. She shared the right way to cook green beans and potatoes, her preferred potatoes, and what she hopes readers will take away from this recipe.

 

 

Tell us about your background.

I am not Italian; I am more of an Italiophile. Their lifestyle, food, and culture speak to me. Ethnically, I have a mixed background of Puerto Rican, Mexican, and caucasian descent. All of which have influenced me in different ways. But it was my travels to Italy some years back that woke something up in me. The slower-paced lifestyle and love for simplicity and food felt sacred in its own way. I brought back that feeling and decided to embrace it in my home, my work, and my lifestyle as much as a born-and-raised Californian can.

 

I am a full-time blogger and YouTuber who shares a simple life, is approachable in cooking from scratch, and loves homemaking. Life is beautiful; every day, there is an opportunity to engage with it. I want to share ways to fall in love with life, food, and the beauty of creating a home that feeds the soul.

 

How did you discover this recipe?

I like to cook authentically because, frankly, I want the real thing. Not the American made-up versions. So, I scour the internet for those wonderful nonnas who share what they are making and the history behind it. Once I feel inspired by something, I write my own version of it, making sure to include the traditional ingredients and not take away from its authenticity. This one I came across after trying to find a non-American mayo-based potato salad and found one that used only potatoes,  green beans, and olive oil, which caught my eye.

 

What makes this recipe Sicilian?

This is insalata vistasa, or an "eye-catching" salad, and that it very much is. It is a classic Sicilian potato salad that is made all over Sicily. I have seen slight differences in other recipes. Some call for anchovies, while others serve quite a plain version of potatoes, green beans, and olive oil. 

 

You recommend Yukon Gold potatoes. Why?

They have a nice creamy texture that works well with being dressed in olive oil. As a bonus, the peels are fine to keep on if you don't feel like peeling the potatoes. 

 

How do you ensure the potatoes and green beans are cooked perfectly for this salad?

Well, using potatoes that are about the same size helps for an even cooking time. You want to cook them until they are just done, not until falling apart. The green beans turn bright green and are ready fast, so I put them in to blanch last at the tail end of cooking the potatoes and make sure I don't walk away. Otherwise, they can overcook and lose the crisp texture that is so good in this salad.

 

What Sicilian meals would you pair with this salad?

This salad is so versatile that you could pair it with just about anything. A crisp, pounded-out chicken cutlet or a Sicilian salt-baked whole fish would work wonderfully. 

 

How and when do you typically serve it?

I like serving it at room temperature. Allowing it to sit a little after making it allows the flavors to develop. It is a great recipe whenever I am asked to bring a dish to a luncheon. 

 

What do you hope at-home cooks will take away from this recipe?

This recipe perfectly represents my food philosophy. Good cooking is about fresh, quality ingredients put together in a simple manner. They make the very best dishes. I think we need to remove the home cook's misperception that cooking from scratch is difficult or complicated. 

 

>>Get Roxanna's recipe here!<<

 

 

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