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Preserving Tradition: A Guide to Authentic Sicilian Stuffed Artichokes

Meghan Birnbaum has been sharing food as @meghanitup since March 2020, when her newly remodeled kitchen provided the perfect backdrop for showcasing recipes. Many of these dishes and desserts were inspired by her Palermo-born grandmother's culinary creations. Meghan's favorite? Stuffed artichokes (carciofi ripieni).


"They were a meal, and we each got one, except my dad and I would share one," she remembers. "He would always give me the heart; it's so symbolic. He gave me his heart, and that's the best part."

 

Through her "Authentic Sicilian Stuffed Artichokes" recipe, Meghan hopes to share the love. We recently chatted about her rendition of this traditional dish, sourcing ingredients, selecting and preparing artichokes, the best way to cook these vegetables, and more.

 

Tell us about your grandmother and how she inspired this recipe.

My grandma came through Ellis Island with her dad and her mom and then moved to St. Louis. She had two sisters and a brother. Her brother went to World War II and didn't come home; it was just her and her sisters. They each bought a house, and the backyards all backed up into each other's, so they essentially shared a yard.

 

My grandpa was a sheet metal worker, and my grandma was the cook of the family. She had four kids. She didn't know how to drive. She never had a job. She just took care of the family. 

 

She watched me as a kid while my parents were working. My grandma didn't write down any of her recipes, so I am recreating everything my family and I remember based on taste, smell, and feel. It took me a while to get this recipe down.

 

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Peak artichoke season is June through September, but supermarkets carry them year-round.

How do you source your ingredients?

Living in Southern California has many advantages. We have many great farmers markets, and then we have Eataly. That's obviously not available to everybody, but I mean, there are a lot of stores; even in St. Louis, where I grew up, there's a little meat market called Mannino's. It's an Italian market, and you just start talking to people about their connection to Italy. They'll tell you, "These are the best breadcrumbs" or "This is the best bread." 

 

How do you select artichokes?

You're going to want a big, round artichoke. And if the leaves have kind of moved away from the center, it's going to be even easier to make. The tighter and the smaller, the harder it is to prep and stuff. The bigger and more bloomed, the easier it'll be to do that.

 

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Trimmed artichokes photo by Meghan Birnbaum

Walk us through how you prepare the artichokes for cooking.

Having the right tools is really important. When I prepare artichokes, I use three different kinds of knives and a peeler. You also have to trim the leaves, so I use scissors.

 

I use a pretty big knife to cut the top off. You want a sharp, heavy-duty knife. It's pretty tough to get through, and it's not stable because the artichoke is round and on its side. You want to have something that can cut through pretty well. Then, I use a paring knife to cut the bottom and a peeler to thin out the skin on the stem. 


I recommend a bucket or a bowl of water with lemon juice in it to prevent the artichokes from browning. The artichokes will brown regardless of what you do, but this minimizes that. 


It's kind of labor intensive, but I feel like I've gotten it down and find it very therapeutic. The more you do it, the easier it becomes. But preparing the artichoke is definitely the hardest part because of how many steps and tools you need just to get it done. 

 

That gets rid of all the prickly parts except for the heart, which is difficult to reach. If somebody tells you to remove the heart and the center of the artichoke before it's cooked, I don't know if they've done that before because it's really impossible. You should steam it for 10 to 15 minutes before you use a spoon to remove those parts. 

 

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Breadcrumbs make this recipe Sicilian. Photo by Meghan Birnbaum.

Do you have any tips for preparing the artichoke stuffing?

It's truly just garlic in olive oil until you can smell it, and then I put in the breadcrumbs. It has to be on a medium to low heat, and you cannot walk away. You need to just constantly stir. The second you see color on those breadcrumbs, you kill the heat and keep stirring. It's going to keep browning. 

 

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Add two inches of water to the pan. Photo by Meghan Birnbaum.

What's the best way to cook stuffed artichokes?

My favorite is just steaming them, and I've done it a few different ways. Sometimes, when I steam them, the water rises too high and kind of goes over the top, so the breadcrumbs on the top become mushy, which is fine. It's mushy on the inside, too, and that's a good texture. So if one batch boils over and it gets mushy, I'm still going to enjoy it. But I love it when I steam it just enough that it doesn't get to the top, and the top is still brown and crispy. When it's gotten mushy on top, I put it in the oven afterward to crisp it, but it's kind of a lost cause at that point if there's too much water on the top of the breadcrumbs. 


I have baked before. That was a more fool-proof method. If you want to make sure you just get crispiness on it, you just put a little water into the pan, and then it'll steam and bake at the same time. 

 

What do you hope people will take away from this recipe?

It's an intimidating recipe, but it's also one that you just don't find in restaurants. So I hope that people will feel encouraged to make this and know that they can make traditional recipes that are not restaurant recipes but rather home recipes.

 

It uses fresh, homegrown ingredients with very Mediterranean vibes. Homemade bread does not go to waste because you're grinding it into breadcrumbs. You're also really utilizing the harvest of the olives and the olive oil. It is like a little Mediterranean treat using what the resources and the produce available have to offer.

 

>>Get Meghan's full stuffed artichokes recipe here!<<

 

 

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How Mamma Mangia Preserves Tradition Through Family Recipes

Mangia was one of the first Italian words Solae' Riddle learned from her mother, Silvana Phillips. For her, to this day, it means so much more than its literal translation, "eat." 

 

"If you know anything about the Italian culture, food is their love language, and there is no better time spent than around the table," says Solae'.


Food has been Mamma Silvana's way of sharing her culture as someone who had emigrated to the U.S. from Sommatino, Sicily, as a young girl. Her passion inspired Solae' to seek to preserve her mother's recipes along with the memories they carried. 


What started as a pet project led to the ladies launching Mamma Mangia, a destination for people who love to eat, a digital brand that feeds the soul.


Solae' recently shared with me how Mamma Mangia started, their recipe method, ways they engage with their audience, their most celebrated achievement, future plans, advice for new bloggers, and more.

 

 

What inspired you to start Mamma Mangia?

In our family, recipes have been passed down only through stories and lessons in the kitchen. If you are lucky, you may be able to find a list of ingredients (without measurements or instructions), but that would be a rarity. 


As a new mom, I felt a push to preserve our family recipes, memories, and culture. So, in 2017, I approached Mamma Silvana with the wild idea that we should write down all of our Italian family recipes. At first, she was taken aback by the idea of writing down these sacred recipes. To her, they are so much more than just a list of ingredients and directions. They are memories of her mother and father, who have long since passed away, memories of a life that is tangible only through our food. The thought that someone else may have access to these sacred recipes felt scary to Mamma Silvana. 


After much convincing at the benefit this would bring to our future posterity, Mamma Silvana agreed to join me in making a family cookbook. We gathered recipes from as many of her eight siblings as we could and pieced together recipes from her mother and father. It quickly became so much more than just another cookbook. We decided to include pedigree charts, our family's immigration story, pictures, and details about the lives of this generation that have never before been written down. Each member of the family had a page dedicated to the details of their lives so that one day when my children make a recipe from this book, they can know who these people are and connect to a part of their own history. 


It took five years to finish our family heirloom cookbook. It was an experience we could never fully put into words. For me, it changed me. It filled a void in my soul that I didn't realize was there. It created a connection to a group of people I didn't know in this life, but somehow they were a part of me. Each recipe brought a memory for Mamma Silvana that also connected her to her own past and ancestors. It was a reminder that although she is now an American citizen, she will always be Sicilian. That her immigration changed her life and the life of her posterity, but her past is just as influential. We often talk about having roots in Sicily, and those roots have become deeper and stronger than ever before. 


After we finished the cookbook, we had an overwhelming feeling that this wasn't the end of our journey. We knew we needed to share this experience with others and encourage them to connect to their own "roots." In August of 2020, we decided to launch a little page on Instagram we called Mamma Mangia. Here, we share our family recipes and culture, but our true hope is that it will encourage others to start a similar journey of their own.

 

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Mamma Silvana shares her memories.


Describe your recipe development process.

Many of the recipes we share are not "new" but rather family recipes that we have been making for generations. That being said, when Mamma Silvana moved to Utah, there were not a lot of options for Italian food items that were available in Sicily or even on the East Coast. So, she started making her own versions so that she could continue to enjoy the food she loved so much. 


Mamma Silvana has an impeccable sense of taste and smell and can dissect nearly any food simply by eating and smelling it. It is like a superpower. When creating recipes, she always knows what she wants and how it should taste and, therefore, does not usually require much testing or perfecting. 


As for me, I love to create new recipes, and though I have been gifted with the ability to create recipes, my powers are not nearly as refined as hers. When I create a new recipe, I always send it to Mamma Silvana for her stamp of approval! 

 

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Mamma Mangia's sourdough pasta

 

Your recipes often include unique twists, like sourdough pasta. How do you balance innovation with tradition?

Our sourdough pasta recipe was the first recipe to really go "viral." It was during the pandemic when everyone was experimenting with sourdough. 


The reason we created the recipe was for personal reasons. Both Mamma Silvana and I have dealt with different health issues that have required adjustments in our diet. As Italians, giving up pasta is always the hardest. In our journey, we learned that if we were to make sourdough pasta and ferment it with an active sourdough starter for 72 hours, it would reduce the gluten content by nearly 90% and also add nutritional benefits. So we ran with it, creating a "healthier," more digestible, and yet completely delicious version of homemade Italian pasta. 


We recognize it is not "traditional," but sometimes, you have to move from tradition slightly in order to continue to eat the things you love. Many recipes that we have shared with a unique twist are born from needing a "better-for-you" option.

 

How do you engage with your audience?

We are truly blessed with the best audience that only gives us positivity and encouragement. Many of our followers are looking to us for inspiration and recipes to connect to their culture and ancestors. Though we have been hesitant at times to share our family recipes that feel so special to us, we are often reminded by our audience about the way in which our recipes have blessed their lives. We have received dozens of messages from people who have searched for lost recipes from their parents, grandparents, or great-grandparents with no luck, only to find that our recipes are almost identical. This type of feedback helps to remind us of our "why."  

 

Can you share a particular achievement you are especially proud of?

The biggest achievement for us isn't the number of followers or sales received but rather the connections that have been made. Mamma Mangia has brought us closer together as a family as we cook and create together and has introduced us to many members of our audience who have become real-life friends. 

 

What are your future plans?

The first family heirloom cookbook we made was our inspiration for Mamma Mangia, but it is not something we can sell to the public as it contains a lot of personal information and recipes that aren't ours to share. That being said, we have had such a demand from our audience for a similar product that they can purchase. We are currently working on a cookbook with all of Mamma Silvana's recipes. It will include over 150 recipes, high-quality photos, personal stories, and hundreds of cooking tips and tricks throughout. We are hoping to launch the cookbook in the spring of 2025.

 

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An heirloom cookbook project started the journey.

 

What advice would you give someone looking to start their own food blog or recipe website?

Understand your "why!" Why are you doing it? What are you hoping the outcome will be? Who do you want to connect with or inspire? People love real life and real people. If you know your "why" and have a fire within you, others will want to follow along and learn from you. Be genuine, be yourself, and remember your "why." 

 

What do you hope your audience takes away?

We have always wanted to inspire others to start their own journey in connecting with their family and loved ones through food. It doesn't matter what your ethnicity and/or background is. Your family has a story to tell. 


Food and recipes have a unique way of telling their story through smell, taste, and tradition that can not be found in any other form. It is our hope that we will influence others to have a desire to gather their family and loved ones around their table and share their love and traditions through food. 

 

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Mamma Silvana and Solae' enjoy a pizza.

 

 


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