Search for the phrase "Sicilian sea salt" online, and you'll stumble on Sicilian Sea Salt. When you learn that the company's co-owner, Joe Styler, works in tech, it's no wonder the brand has optimal search engine results.
The senior marketing manager of GoDaddy's Domain Academy runs Sicilian Sea Salt with his wife, Leslie Styler, in Phoenix, only fitting for a product once harvested by the Phoenicians.
Joe's grandmother was from Western Sicily, where he first encountered Sicilian sea salt production. After one taste of the product, he was hooked. As a trained chef, he's fully incorporated it into his food preparation. He's confident other people will have the same experience.
Joe and I recently chatted about the Sicilian Sea Salt Company and sea salt from Sicily. He shared what sparked the development of the business and what sets his salt apart from that of other salt producers and purveyors.
What inspired Sicilian Sea Salt's start?
It was kind of an accident. My son really liked science, and he loves geology. We were in Sicily with my parents and brought my mother-in-law. My dad wanted to take my son out to do what he wanted. He wanted to see rocks. Where are you going to see rocks? They went to the salt museum. They came back with salt, and it was unbelievable how good the salt was.
I've cooked my entire life, worked in many restaurants, and tried different salts. I know salt's importance in different seasonings, but this salt was just different.
We got some from the museum, and when we went back home, I needed to figure out how to get more of this salt. We couldn't get it here. So, I started reaching out to people in Sicily, and I found a way to get the salt. Then, I started giving it out to people as gifts, and I'd have to get more and more and more salt because everyone wanted it. So, we started getting it in bulk and just giving it away.
I was talking to one of my friends to whom I gave salt, and they said, "You should sell this because everybody who has it likes it, and there's not enough for you to give out. You should just try and figure out a way to sell it."
What makes Sicilian sea salt unique compared to other salts on the market?
There are a couple of things that are really cool about the salt. First, really, there's something that I think is indescribable about it. We call it "magic salt" because everything you put it on tastes better than it would with a different salt.
What makes it special is that it's harvested in a protected space, a marine reserve in Sicily. So the water where they get the salt from is really pure, and they've been doing it there for thousands of years. We live in Phoenix now, and it's funny because the Phoenicians started it there. For thousands of years, Sicily was conquered by different people, and everybody used the salt. That was one of the main things of importance that they would take from there.
When you drive on the coast from Trapani to Marsala, you just see miles and miles of salt pans, and they've been there for thousands of years and have windmills. Those are not really in use; they're decorations now, but they had those windmills to pump the seawater in these flats.
Sea salt is made from evaporated ocean water, which is solar evaporation. They put it out into big flat spaces called pans, and then the sun and the breeze from the ocean evaporate the water. Then, what's left is the salt. So it's really pure; there's nothing added to it.
It would be organic. The FDA regulates salt, but the USDA does not because it considers it a rock—and this was another challenge when we started to figure out the regulatory issues of running a food business. The FDA regulates anything you put in your mouth. The USDA designates things as organic, and since they don't recognize salt as something that comes under their purview, you can't get an organic designation. But it is really very pure the salt that we get.
I think that that's different than what most people get. The stuff that you get off the shelf is made by giant chemical companies, and it's really processed to be the same no matter what. They need to do chemical processes to make it like that. Then, they add different chemicals for anti-caking and make sure that it can pour out if it's humid. They also make sure that it's white. They do a lot of processing to it, which makes the bland, almost metallic flavor of normal salt compared to a salt like ours, which is special.
Even the kosher salt is processed in most cases. It has a more bland taste to it. They also strip out a lot of natural minerals, which are trace elements.
Since each batch that you pull comes from the ocean, it will vary. But there are different amounts of trace elements in there. Some people say it's beneficial for your diet, and there are studies on that, but I think that it just gives a different flavor profile.
What makes Sicilian salt special is its long history. The ancient Greeks, the Phoenicians, and the Romans all used salt pans and the grain they grew there as key ingredients in their empires. It's just been a natural way of life for thousands of years.
It's also environmentally friendly to use salt from the ocean. It has been there for thousands of years and doesn't hurt the land. There's no erosion.
If you buy Himalayan salt, it's fine; the pink salt is good and helps people, typically in poorer communities, make money. But they do a lot of deep mining and destroy much of the earth.
Ours is sustainable, which is another thing we like about it.
How have you incorporated sustainability into your packaging?
We try to use paper as much as possible instead of bubble wrap or other things like that so it can be recycled. Then we have these jars that we bought, which can be reused. We just did some packaging with paper envelopes so that you can refill those jars and reuse the jars over and over. We actually recently upgraded to a different jar from France, and it's a little sturdier. You can use our jars for canning or holding other spices, and there's really not much waste.
You source your salt from Trapani. Tell us about its production.
We have a supplier there whose family has been harvesting salt for 50 or 60 years. They do everything by hand. You see them out there with rakes.
There are different types of salt: fleur de sel, which is the French word, and fiore del sale, which is Italian.
It forms when the water's still there, and the salt separates and floats up to the top. That has to be really carefully skimmed because if you bump it, it will sink. And that is really crunchy, almost like Maldon, but Maldon's different. It's thin; it's very expensive and labor-intensive to pull it out, but that's all done by hand. I don't know if there's any machine that can do that. So, across the world, that part is done by hand, but as it evaporates, it just gets into these big clumps that have to be broken up.
Your core salt comes from what's broken up, and then you have to grind it down further. So all that stuff is done by hand in the same way it's been done for thousands of years with the company we work with. So they're out there with rakes, raking or shoveling the salt into wheelbarrows, and they make it the same way that it's been made for thousands of years.
For us, that's important too because you can get a lot of salt from Sicily. Many different types are for sale. There are many bigger conglomerates, and they make it in a large-scale manufacturing process. They're not doing it the same way that it's been done. It's not artisanal, and you can taste the difference. You can actually see the difference. The salt's good, but it's not great. It's not that next level. You can look at the two salts by side and just know, just by seeing them, that they're different. When you try them, you can taste the different flavor profiles that they provide. So, it's important for us to have something that's really at the highest level.
How do you enjoy your salt?
I like it in a lot of different ways. I use coarse salt as a finishing salt. We made roast vegetables yesterday, and we used it on top.
We have the coarse salt that we use for a margarita; we put it on the rim. Then, we use the fine salt if we're going to do something like a sauce or if we're baking.
I also use it if I'm going to make rubs for barbecue, age steaks, or try to tenderize things like lamb. I use the coarse salt, put it over that, and let it sit.
It really makes a difference in almost anything you eat. In fact, my mother has this little salt shaker in which she grinds her own salt, which she brings around now. After trying it from Sicily, she won't use any other salt.
What experience do you hope customers will take away?
I hope they have some connection to the Sicilian people, even if they're not Sicilian.
One important thing is that there's still high unemployment in Sicily. So, I think it would be good if people were more aware of Sicily as a part of Italy that they could visit. It definitely doesn't get the same amount of attention. It gets quite a bit of Italian tourists, but outside Italy, not many tourists come. I think the more recognition it can get, the more it can help their economy.
If we can make the connection to Sicily and the unique food culture there, I think that's important. Sicily has a really different food culture from the rest of Italy. The one thing I like about Italians is that they're really strict about what qualifies if you make something. If you don't make the exact right ratio of ingredients, then it isn't right. You made it wrong. They have protections over their food. Those things are good because they keep traditions alive. As a chef, I like experimenting with things and changing things up. So, for example, I make pizzas. If I'm not using the right flour, the right tomatoes, and the right cheese, then it doesn't count as a true Neapolitan pizza.
Because so many cultures have ruled over Sicily, there's a lot more flexibility in the type of food that's there, and it's a much more diverse food culture. I like that about Sicily, too. And I think that that's something that people don't really realize. They think of Italian food as spaghetti, meatballs, pizza, or things like that. And there's such a wide variety in Sicily. If you look around at different restaurants or marketplaces, they'll say, "This is Sicilian style," or "These came from Sicily." Italians hold Sicily, in some ways, in high respect as far as their food goes.
I think we can bring more awareness to Sicily as a whole and have more investment there by having people say that they want to go. Former Starbucks CEO Howard Schultz was in Partanna, Sicily, and he started olive oil and coffee. That didn't go well, but it was good because he said, "This is what I discovered when I was in Sicily," and it brought more attention to the island.
I think it's really important for people to do more to help the economy overall and continue the culture. So that's the one thing I hope people take away when they try our salt. I also hope that they start to think more widely about their ingredient choices, how that impacts their health, and how it impacts the flavor of their food.
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