Inspired by her grandmother Palmira Giglia, acclaimed "Vaccaro" turtlenecks designer and owner of Settebello boutique in Boston, Giuliana Leila Raggiani launched her design career in 2013 after studying at Parsons School of Design and completing the knitwear program at Central Saint Martins in London.
She started with an intimate collection of four chunky jacquard oversized sweaters made on her knitting machine. The collection evolved following Giglia's passing in 2014 when Giuliana chose to reproduce her grandmother's iconic turtleneck.
"Little did I know it would become the missing piece to the puzzle of giu giu," Giuliana says, reflecting on her own brand's launch.
Called "NONNA," this homage to the woman who taught her about fabrics was also a gift to Giglia's original customers, who began contacting Giuliana to share their personal memories tied to the coveted collection.
Encouraged, Giuliana expanded the "NONNA" collection into different silhouettes, following her grandmother's knitting technique.
Today, "NONNA" sits at the heart of giu giu. Giuliana divides her time between France and Tokyo, where she opened GIU GIU House. This seasonal experience/community space serves as a gallery, shop, café, and portal to a beloved brand.
Giuliana took time to discuss her background and how her grandmother inspired her. She revealed her design philosophy, reflected on memorable collections and experiences, and shared advice for other designers.
What is your connection to Sicily?
My mother is from Sicily, and I am a first-generation Sicilian born in Boston, Massachusetts. A lot of my family still live in a small village called Aragona, in Agrigento. It's a beautiful historic region by the sea, and I'd love to find time to visit more frequently.
Tell us about your grandmother Palmira Giglia, and how she inspired you.
My nonna, Palmira Giglia, was a true queen. She was always my favorite person to spend time with, and truly understood me to my core. She had hands of magic—everything she touched somehow became a work of art, whether it was a dress she was sewing, her garden, or a dessert she was making. She was fabulous, had impeccable taste, taught me about fabrics and cooking, and had an undying passion for the arts in all forms.
There was something truly divine about her essence. She opened a boutique in Boston with my godfather, Gino, from the 1960s to the early 90s, called Settebello, after they emigrated from Italy. Together, they created a cult line of knitwear, specifically, the "Vaccaro" turtleneck, an iconic shrunken ribbed knit available in a rainbow palette of hues.
giu giu "Nonna" turtleneck in "Cobweb"
How do you blend your heritage into your designs?
It is naturally embedded in every stitch of the knitting, as my designs are rooted in my nonna's work and passed down to me. I feel it's my duty to honor the lineage of something that served so many people with positive memories. It is an ancestral timeline and my practice in the "art of preservation."
How does the giu giu design philosophy and aesthetic reflect your personal experiences and influences?
The philosophy of Guu Giu is to feel comfortable in your skin, like you're wearing nothing and everything at the same time, because it feels so good on your physical body.
I think back to my personal experiences where I felt best in my clothing and try to replicate that feeling through my designs. I believe your clothing should work with your body and not against it. Garments that excite the senses more than just visually. Touch. Mixing textures through fiber and stitch. An invitation to explore and play—to roll, tie, twist, reverse, etc. To engage your inner child.
One of the main reasons I love knitwear comes from my personal experience as a dancer. I always loved that dance-wear allowed movement and had this casual and carefree ability to adjust as needed. It's an inspiration that stays constant in my work.
giu giu "Nonna" turtleneck in "Baleine"
Tell us about some memorable collaborations.
Ah, it's tough to choose, as each collection has been so special and serves as a little time capsule for me. I'd have to say, in 2020, during the first wave of COVID, my factory shut down for months. I didn't have any physical samples to shoot, so I got together with some friends in L.A., and we created a very extra-terrestrial virtual reality film for giu giu using a green screen. It was such a different perspective and way of showing the giu giu world and a fun way to solve a seemingly huge setback.
giu giu "Nonna" blazer and button-down in "Mud"
What has been the most rewarding part of your journey?
After 11 years of growing this baby, I think finally being able to see the fruits of my labor through the community I've built has been the most rewarding. Hearing directly from customers and the giu giu family about how this clothing has touched, healed, and created memories of love for others brings me so much joy. It's the small part I can do in the grand spectrum of helping change the world in an effort to make it a more beautiful and harmonious place.
giu giu "Nonna" turtleneck in "Kaki"
What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers?
Listen to your intuition. The right path does not always look the same for everyone. It may not make sense on paper or when you do the math. People may call you crazy. But you always feel the answer in your gut. Sometimes, you have to move against the grain of what's "normal" or what has worked for others. Yet, in the end, I promise you will never regret it.
"Sometimes, you have to move against the grain of what's 'normal'..."
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