Lindsay Marie Morris

December was a busy month in the kitchen as my mother baked her way through all of her Sicilian cookie specialties. Come Christmas, we'd wrap up our finished batches and bring them to my aunt and uncle's home, where they'd be added to a nearly overflowing tray of classic holiday Sicilian confections.

 

One of the prettiest among these was the pizzelle, a thin and delicate waffle cookie dusted in powdered sugar and made with a hint of anise extract.

 

Produced in the Abruzzo region of Italy since the 15th century, this cookie, alternatively known as ferratelle, nevole, or catarrette, is also enjoyed in Sicily. The region, historically known as Abruzzi, was, after all, once part of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, so it's no wonder there are shared recipes.

 

I recently stumbled on Maria Vannelli's blog, She Loves Biscotti, where I found a pizzelle recipe. Maria's recipe looks just like the cookie I remember, but with a twist: it's plant-based. The Montreal-based dietician and content creator developed this vegan recipe for her daughter so that she, too, could enjoy Christmas cookies.

 

Maria shared her background, her favorite Italian Christmas memories, and the special significance of this recipe. Among her recipe development goals is making recipes more accessible so everyone can share holiday traditions through food.

 

 

Tell us about your background.

I was born in Montreal, Canada. My dad was born in Ripabottoni, Campobasso, in the Molise region of Italy, while my mom hails from Molinara, Benevento, in the Campania region. Both emigrated to Montreal, Canada, in the early 1950s, where they met, married, and raised a family. My dad owned an Italian grocery store, and my mom was a homemaker, which fueled my fascination with food and ultimately led me to become a dietitian. As the eldest of three, I grew up speaking Italian and had the privilege of living with my paternal grandparents, which deepened my connection to my Italian heritage.

 

What kinds of foods and recipes left a lasting impression?

I have countless "food memories" tied to family gatherings, making it challenging to pinpoint my favorites. Sunday lunches were particularly special, always filled with love, laughter, and a sprinkle of family drama, with homemade cavatelli as a staple that beautifully represented my nonna's Italian traditions. It is still my favorite pasta to this day.

The excitement and preparations for holidays like Easter and Christmas also left a lasting impression, with an abundance of mouthwatering food prepared from scratch! Whether it was my mom's lasagna or her homemade cannelloni, every dish was a labor of love.

Living with my grandparents meant our home was always open and inviting to extended family and friends. At least once a week, I would come home from school to find a great aunt or uncle visiting. This often meant a delightful spread of biscotti and Italian cookies—an amazing after-school snack and probably where my obsession with Italian cookies began.

 

Did your family bake Italian cookies for Christmas?

Yes, my mom and nonna baked a variety of Italian cookies for Christmas! Some of my favorites include almond biscotti, struffoli, chiacchiere, pizzelle, and mostaccioli, Christmas Eve fritters, and chestnut cookies, also known as calzoni di castagne. Each cookie brought its unique flavors and textures to our holiday celebrations. My mom would also make beautiful Christmas baskets filled with these cookies to share with family and friends.

 

Do you have any special memories attached to Italian Christmas foods?

Absolutely, I have so many special memories attached to Italian Christmas foods! One of my favorites is the time spent in the kitchen "baking" with my mom and nonna, especially when they would make pizzelle. They made ferratelle one at a time with a stovetop pizzelle press with long handles. 

 

Watching them work their magic was such a joy, and I can vividly remember eating the pizzelle faster than they could make them! Those moments were filled with laughter and the delightful aroma of these freshly baked treats, creating memories I'll always cherish.

 

Did your family observe Italian Christmas traditions?

Yes, my family certainly embraced Italian Christmas traditions. In the days leading up to Christmas Day, the kitchen was a lively hub of activity, with my mom and nonna bustling about, baking and making homemade pasta as they prepared for the big meal.

On Christmas Day, we would begin by attending Mass, which set a meaningful tone for the festivities. Afterward, the final touches for our festive meal would continue, with everyone pitching in to ensure everything was just right. Once the main meal was served and enjoyed, we waited for more of the extended family to visit. While we waited, there was always a spirited game of Scopa, adding to the day's excitement. Finally, we would indulge in homemade desserts and fruit platters.

These family traditions on Christmas Day created lasting memories for me. Although many loved ones, including my mom and dad, are no longer with us, we continue to cherish those wonderful memories as we celebrate with my brother, sister, and their families.

Being the eldest, my family now hosts Christmas, and I take great pride in continuing the traditions by making some of the traditional foods my mom and nonna would prepare. It's a way to honor their legacy and keep our family heritage alive. 

Inevitably, as we gather around the table, a story is shared—whether it's a food memory of past celebrations or a humorous anecdote from our family history. These stories add warmth and connection to our celebrations, reminding us of the love and joy that has always been at the heart of our Christmas gatherings. 

For the younger ones, these "stories" serve as a bridge to their heritage, connecting them to their great-grandparents and great-great-grandparents they never had the chance to meet. It's a beautiful way to keep our family history alive and instill a sense of belonging in each generation.

 

Mara cools her pizzelle on a rack to ensure they stay crisp.

 

Tell us about your pizzelle recipe. How is it similar or different from the traditional recipe?

My daughter's journey into veganism inspired my vegan pizzelle recipe. I wanted her to continue enjoying one of her favorite Italian cookies, so I adapted my nonna's traditional recipe.

Seeing her joy when she tasted these vegan pizzelles for the first time was such a heartwarming moment! This recipe combines my family's traditions and her dietary choices. After some experimentation, I found that using flaxseed creates a batter with just the right consistency, giving the pizzelles a wonderfully crisp texture without any vegan butter.

The intricate patterns that pizzelles are known for come out beautifully in this vegan version, thanks to a well-heated pizzelle press. These vegan pizzelles keep our Italian traditions alive while being perfect for plant-based diets, making it easy to enjoy this cookie together!

 

Does this recipe have special significance to you?

These vegan pizzelles hold special significance for me because they help keep our Italian family recipes alive while being perfect for plant-based diets. It means so much to enjoy this beloved cookie together as a family!

Christmas is a time for baking special cookies and treats, and pizzelles are classic Italian waffle cookies that many families make during the holiday season. By adapting this recipe, I can honor our family's culinary heritage while ensuring that everyone can partake in the joy of baking and sharing these delicious cookies. It's a wonderful way to connect with our traditions and create new memories together!

 

What is your goal when developing recipes like this?

With my pizzelle recipe, I hope at-home bakers will see that it's possible to honor tradition while accommodating different dietary needs. I want them to feel inspired to get creative in the kitchen and adapt cherished recipes to fit their lifestyles, just like I did for my daughter.

My goal in developing recipes like this is to bring people together through food, making it accessible and enjoyable for everyone. Cooking and baking should be a joyful experience filled with love and connection. By sharing this vegan pizzelle recipe, I hope to encourage others to create their own special moments and memories around the table, celebrating both tradition and creativity!

  

Maria Vannelli aka @SheLovesBiscotti

>>Get Maria's recipe for vegan pizzelle cookies here!<<

 

 

 

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I was just a little girl the first time my nonna pulled out a deck of cards to show me how to play a game called Scopa. We'd visit every Sunday, so I could always look forward to another after-supper game. Memories of playing it inspired a few scenes in my first novel. 

The game's name comes from the Italian word for broom, as the winner gets to sweep all the cards from the table. And unlike a standard deck, these are slightly reminiscent of the tarot with 40 cards, divided into four suits: denari (coins), coppe (cups), spade (swords), and bastoni (clubs).

Cards display values between one and seven with four face cards rounding out eight through ten: fante (the knave), which is worth a value of eight; cavallo (the knight) in the Neapolitan-type deck or donna (the queen) in the Milanese-type deck, which are both worth nine; and re (the king), which is worth ten.

Many of these decks, which vary regionally, are richly illustrated and have become collector items. I recently had a chance to see several styles shared by Toronto-based Tony Costa, who took time out with Joseph Cafiso of Woodbridge, Ontario, for a discussion on all things Scopa.

Both are members of Toronto-based Villa Charities, an organization dedicated to enriching lives through experiences and services that honor Italian culture and heritage. Tony serves as vice chair, and Joseph is a member of the Cultural Advisory Group. Both men are Italian-born. Tony emigrated with his parents as a young boy from Calabria, while Joseph came from Ragusa, Sicily. They shared the game's objective with me and how it ties them to their Italian identities.

 

 

How did you start playing Scopa?

Tony: Card playing was part of what my family did when my friends and relatives would visit. It was done mostly in the wintertime, and it wasn't really done throughout the summer because the summer had other activities. Throughout my adolescence, we would play; I only started playing poker and all the other stuff later in life.

But I grew up with Scopa, Briscola, and Tresette. People played for beverages. Whoever won the game would get a glass of wine, for instance, or a bottle of beer. Some people would never win and weren't even allowed to drink water. That was part of the game. You had to win to drink something. So that's how I grew up with it.

Italian cards are similar but yet distinct by region. You can travel throughout Italy and find different types of cards. I've collected 10 regional versions. When I met my wife and started going to her place, for instance, my late father-in-law used to play with the Milanese ones, so I had to learn those cards when we started playing. When I was traveling fairly often, whenever I saw a new set that I hadn't seen, I would purchase it for my collection.

Joseph: I was in my early teens when I learned with my grandparents. We used to have a farm that we'd go to in the summer, and we spent the evening playing by the moonlight in the early '60s.

Later, I played with my friends. I don't play it as often anymore, but it's interesting how I have two boys, and my boys know how to play it, even though they were born and raised in Canada. They played with their friends at school.

I used to be a teacher, and at this particular school, about 20% of the student population was of Italian origin, so we organized Scopa tournaments. I was amazed by the number of people who loved to play, and they used to play just for fun.

Now, if I play, it will be with my peers. We play it at Christmas time, usually when we get together to play Tombola, the Italian version of Bingo, and other card games.

 

What is the objective of the game?

Tony: Basically, you're going for four points. The way you do that is everybody gets three cards, and four cards are put on the table. If you have a card like the four, and there's a four on the table, you can take that card. Once you get through the three cards, you take another three. Or you can do combinations; in other words, if there's a two and a four on the table and you have a six, you can take your six and pick up the two and the four together.

If there happens to be only one card left on the table and you happen to have that card, let's say there's a four on the table and you have a four in your hand, you can take the four, and that becomes a Scopa. That's a point in and of itself. And hence the name of the game, Scopa.

You're trying to accumulate as many of the denari as possible because one of the points goes to the individual who accumulates most of these denari cards. That's one. The second thing you want to do is try to get the seven of denari, which is a point in and of itself. So whoever accumulates that seven gets a second point. The third point goes to the one who has the most cards picked up. The fourth point is something they call a primera, a combination of four cards with an inherent value to each card. You have to put together your four highest cards, one of each suit. You can't have more than one of each suit. And whoever has the highest value in those four cards gets the fourth point.

I've seen some games where you get five or six plus your four points, and the game doesn't last very long because it's up to 11 points.

Joseph: Some people play to 11. I've known people who play up to 15. For some reason, it has to be an odd number.

 

How does Scopa connect you to your culture?

Joseph: It started as part of family recreation, a way to get together and stay together. Nowadays, we have so-called family games, whether it's Monopoly or Risk or other games, and you still have Checkers and so on. Playing cards goes back centuries. But for me personally, it's just a way of being together with friends and family and having a good time because when you play, you also talk about all kinds of things. You talk about food, the weather, and relations. I mean, you joke around, you tease one another. It's a way to connect, be together, and strengthen bonds between friends and family.

Tony: Once in a while, I'll take out the cards. I have three daughters, three sons-in-law, and a bunch of grandkids. My daughters and I have played since they were little, but now I've introduced it to my non-Italian sons-in-law, who enjoy it. And some of my grandchildren are also starting to play it. So it's a way of keeping our culture—one small thing within our culture, but it's an important one, similar to our food. This is one of our pastimes.

 

What advice would you give someone new to the game?

Tony: Enjoy its simplicity because it isn't a very difficult game to play. We had a get-together at Villa Colombo, where some people had never even seen a deck of cards of this nature. Within one session, they understood the game, and they were able to participate. Now, mind you, they needed some help, but by the time that second and third evening came, they needed no more lessons; they were squaring off with the best of us who had played before. So enjoy it as an opportunity to be with other people. Don't take it seriously.

Scopa is a good beginner's game; you can pass hours and hours. People gravitate to this because it doesn't require money. It doesn't require you to buy expensive equipment. You just need a deck of cards. You have hours and hours of fun for a couple of bucks in a day.

Joseph: It's a social game, and it has that way of putting people together, especially for people who live alone or don't have family or too many friends. It is a great way to meet people. And without any pressure, financial or otherwise, you can have a good time and have a few laughs. 

 

 

 

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