icon caret-left icon caret-right instagram pinterest linkedin facebook x goodreads bluesky threads tiktok question-circle facebook circle twitter circle linkedin circle instagram circle goodreads circle pinterest circle

Conversazioni

Sicilian Figs: Ancient Roots, Modern Appeal

Cultivated since ancient times and even believed to be the forbidden fruit of the Garden of Eden, the fig occupies a special place in Mediterranean history and tradition. 


Recognized for its bulbous shape with a small opening, the ostiole, at its base, the common fig is the edible fruit of the ficus carica—a flowering plant species in the mulberry family. 
 

While figs hold a special place on Sicilian dessert tables, they're rich in potassium and calcium, which benefit bone health. The fruit even provides significant amounts of iron, potassium, and magnesium.


What's not to love? It's no wonder many gardeners choose to grow fig trees. 


"It's a plant we've been connected with for a really long time, which is why people become so fascinated by it," says One Green World Nursery Manager Sam Huber. "We share a deep, rich history with it, and it's such a unique plant that comes in many forms. It's exciting to find one that thrives in your area. And it's fairly easy to grow, too."  


Oregon-based One Green World sells a variety of so-called Mount Etna Sicilian figs, including the Sangue Dolce and the Natalina. They also sell a fig called the Chicago Hardy, which is originally from Sicily but easily takes root in colder areas in the northern U.S.


Sam and I recently had a chance to chat about all things Sicilian fig-related. 

 

 

Tell us about One Green World.

The nursery was built on extensive plant exploration and searching the world. With the advent of the internet and the availability of so much information, more varieties and cultivars are available than ever before. We've been continuing in that tradition, looking for new things both here and abroad.

 

You grow Sicilian figs. Can you share more about your offerings?

The lines of where things developed and whatnot are a little bit blurry, but there's a loose grouping of a certain type of fig, a smaller purple fig with a red interior that just gets called the Mount Etna figs. It's very similar to the ones people have been growing for a long time in Sicily. There, they're grown at 1,000-2,000-foot elevation—so high in elevation that those varieties do well for more northern growers. It's been super cool to see how they thrive in Sicily, of course, but also here.
 

They're just really wonderful. Everybody likes different things. I really like the dark, jammy figs with the red interior. Sicily also grows a white one that's more of a honey fig. And, of course, there are just wild ones growing everywhere. The fig has just naturalized around much of the Mediterranean and California.


Figs have two crops: the breba crop, which ripens on previous years' wood, and the main crop, which is on new growth. Etna figs have been such a winner for folks in more northern climates because they may have a touch more cold hardiness. 


In Oregon, we don't typically get cold enough to have killing frost that would kill off wood on our fig trees. Because they ripen the main crop really early, it's on the new growth. But there's a fig called Chicago Hardy, which is just another Mount Etna type that was found in Chicago and hardy enough to withstand some winters there. 


What's unique about them is you can have them get frosted back really hard, or people will do extreme things to overwinter them on places like the East Coast, like cut them back really hard. Some people will even tip them over and bury them, and then the trees still shoot out new growth and produce figs that year. Because the main crop grows all on the new growth, all you need is something that's sending off new growth because they ripen so early and don't need as much heat coming from a higher elevation place. It makes it a good, reliable one for folks who are more on the fringe of where figs would otherwise grow. 

Mount-Etna-figs.jpg

 

What are the ideal conditions for growing Sicilian fig varieties?

The Mount Etna ones, in particular, are adaptable. But if it gets wet in the fall, the fig will just split. Generally, it's a dry summer climate that helps all figs thrive.


It's similar to where we grow grapes in the world. The Mediterranean climate of wet, mild winters and then pretty warm, dry summers concentrates the flavor and prevents the fig from splitting. 


The fig isn't actually a fruit; it's this weird inside-out flower. So it's very different when it's ripening. It's very easy for it to split if there's too much water or after it's been dry. When you get a big heavy rainfall, you'll sometimes see that little eye of the fig, the ostiole, split open. 


So fig trees generally need a dry climate with enough heat units; you need a good bit of warmth to ripen most varieties. We've been searching for ones that do well in cooler climates, but typically, if you're in California, they can ripen way more than we do in Oregon. It needs a dry summer and a mild winter—not so cold that it kills off the tree. Because below zero, they get pretty damaged.

 

Which regions are best for growing Sicilian figs?

Oregon's Willamette Valley will probably be one of the best spots outside of California, which is just the ideal fig-growing region in the country. 


Most parts of the continent don't have the dry summer that we do. But people grow them on the East Coast; there are many old fig trees on the East Coast because people brought them when they were emigrating. That's encouraged growers there to continue finding hardy varieties.


It's a classic story: People who sneaked a fig tree in with them. And so that's why you have all these various trees of unknown origin that were planted by immigrants way back in the day and are still surviving. Then, people go and clone those that proved themselves in harsher climates.  

 

What are some ways to enjoy figs?

Certainly, fresh eating is one of the best ways because it's one of the more fragile perishable fruits when they're perfectly ripe. But once your tree's really cranking, there are more figs than you can just eat fresh. 


Aside from fresh eating, people make jams with them and make dried figs. Drying figs is one the best ways to preserve them so that you have those carbohydrates and sugars for wintertime.


People get creative, doing just all sorts of weird things. There is a brewery in Texas called Jester King, where they could not get enough figs. They used them to make fermented beers with all these different fruits thrown in.


The possibilities are somewhat endless. People make concentrates and different syrups from them, but I feel like jams and dehydration for dried figs are probably the most common.

 

What do you want people to take away when they buy a One Green World fig tree?

Above all, we just want people to be successful in their gardening. Planting a tree is a pretty big commitment. They're not super cheap, and you have to dedicate water and energy to keeping them alive. 


During the COVID pandemic, when all these people started getting into gardening, people would come to us having never grown any trees before. And they'd always want to grow peaches, nectarines, and apricots, some of the most delicious, tasty fruits you can grow. But those, in particular, do poorly here. And so we would always say, "Why don't you try growing a fig, a persimmon, a grape, or something that's just a little easier and better adapted for our part of the world?" I feel like we're often telling folks just to learn to love the things that really want to grow well here.


Aside from just really wanting people to succeed with their gardens and grow something that they're going to find success with and be really happy with in terms of it being reliable, easy, and delicious, there are so many stories attached to all these things, as there have always been with plants. It's just a cool way to preserve stories, whether they are more recent or older ones. And for us, too, it's like a botanical journal. When we're on these trips and collecting things or doing road trips around California, they really encapsulate a time period for us.  


Fig trees have deep origin stories; maybe that was the tree from the Garden of Eden. We've been intertwined with this plant for a really long time. 

 

 

 

If you enjoyed this article, consider subscribing to my newsletter for more content and updates!

SF Festa della Madonna del Lume Queen Carries on Family Legacy

Festa della Madonna del Lume Queen Brianna Dorio Wraa

For 89 years, San Francisco's La Società di Maria Santissima del Lume has organized Festa delle Madonna del Lume, a grand celebration/memoriam patterned after the original held in Porticello, Sicily.


In addition to serving as a Sicilian-American festival dedicated to Porticello's patroness, the event honors fishermen who were lost or perished at sea. 


Sicilian-American Brianna Dorio Wraa's grandfather was one of those lost. His daughter, Brianna's mother, was just 11 years old when his fishing boat was caught in a swell, and he disappeared off the coast of one of the Farallon Islands. A few years later, the then-teenager found comfort and fellowship within La Società di Maria Santissima del Lume and began attending the group's annual Festa. It's become a family affair. 


Last weekend, Brianna proudly stood before her community for the second year in a row, wearing the crown of Festa della Madonna del Lume Queen. For her, it was an honor and a way to pay tribute to her grandfather's memory. Next month, it will be 50 years since his disappearance. 


Following the festivities, I caught up with Brianna, who is pursuing a degree in communications studies with a minor in human resources management at the University of Nevada-Reno, to chat about the significance of the event, how she became Queen, and her fondest Festa memory.  

 

 

How did you become Festa Queen?

For me, it was a little different than normal. My family has always gone to the Festa della Madonna del Lume, and we always saw the queen and the princesses, and everyone wanted to be that. 


Knowing that it was coming up on 50 years with my grandfather's passing, I wanted to do something to honor his memory more than just going to the event. So, I reached out to Rose Cannizzaro, one of our co-presidents.


She said this was great because many people in my generation aren't really focused on preserving the tradition. They usually have younger queens—middle school to high school-aged range—which is great, but when they're finished, they still have a bunch of school left. There's only so much you can do when you're a kid. 


But as an adult, I knew that I wanted to preserve this. I want to make sure that tradition continues for as long as possible. I know it means so much to my family. There are so many people for whom it means so much.


When I joined the committee last year, I immediately started running. A couple of months after I joined the committee, they were having a fundraiser. We got raffle baskets, and we got the centerpieces done. And they were impressed that I was able to get so much done in such little time. Rose and Antonia San Filippo-Ferretti are not only co-presidents of the organization, but Antonia was also the queen and maiden director.


Both called me on a three-way call, and they said, "We would be honored if you were our queen." It was definitely a surprise. I said, "Oh my gosh, I'd love to; I'd be honored."


This organization is special for two reasons. One reason is to honor the Madonna and the very religious aspect. The other side is to honor the fishermen like my grandfather, who were lost at sea. It just meant a lot to be Queen. 


I was able to find girls to be maidens for the court. I've expanded the court, so now we have six maidens. (Last year, we had three maidens.) And we already have girls talking about joining next year. It's nice to see that progression.


I think the committee was just so impressed that I was able to do so much being so young and being so dedicated already that they were like, "This girl is the perfect example of what it means to be dedicated, to honor our organization, and to portray our organization in a great way."

 

What are your responsibilities as Queen?

I actually changed the way that Queen is thought of. In the past, it was really just for the events and to have a young representation there. So, there weren't really any roles associated with it before I came in. And I set things in stone for the future in a way because, besides being Queen, I am still on the committee and go to the monthly meetings we have. I also am one of the fundraising chairs. So, I work with Antonia to find sponsors for our events.


I try to get the word out. I am the person who runs our social media, our Facebook and Instagram. I am also a co-director of the court. I am super involved, and I will stay involved. And especially with next year being the 90th year, it's really a huge year for us. 

 

What does Madonna del Lume mean to you personally?

People always talk about how Madonna de Luma shone the light down on the fishermen to help bring them back home. The Madonna can mean so many different things, but for those from fishing families, that's the most heartfelt part. Part of the reason some people come is because of the fishermen who never made it back. I grew up hearing my mom's stories. She was 11, so you know what's happening at that age, but you don't at the same time. I remember her talking about how, in the case of my grandfather, he was just going to show his friend and his friend's son how to do his line of work on a new boat. He was a drag fisherman. 


A swell just came, and it was too big for the boat they had. The Coast Guard searched 24/7 for two weeks, and then, after those two weeks, they called it off.


It was hard. My grandmother was a stay-at-home mom, and she was a widow at 32. She had to not only take care of her children but also compose herself in a way after losing the love of her life.  


Our organization is super-small compared to Porticello's. The entire procession is huge and so focused on the Madonna. I think our organization finds a way to do both.


There are many ways to pray to the Madonna because she is the Mother of Light. It's not just about fishermen returning to shore. It's also about when there's so much darkness in your world, and you need a beacon of light or that light at the end of the tunnel mindset. She is that.


A woman from one of the families associated with our organization went through several miscarriages, and a family member prayed to the Madonna. After they started praying to the Madonna, she got pregnant and was able to conceive and carry to full-term a child. 


I know it means so many different things for so many different families. That's something that's great about the organization: It could mean so many different things, but we all find our way back to the light at the end of the tunnel, in a way.

 

Can you share a special memory from a past Festa?

Next month is going to be 50 years since my grandfather was lost at sea. I actually had a wreath made in honor of him and surprised my mom with that. And she absolutely had no clue. 


For the past month, we have been running around doing a bunch of different things to get ready for this Festa. She kept saying this year, "I need to get a wreath made. I need to get flowers. I need to do this. I need to do that. I need to do all these things."


Because I'm in Reno, I flew on Thursday night and had Thursday and Friday, and then the Festa was on Saturday and Sunday. So there wasn't really a lot of time to get flowers or make a wreath. I remembered someone I know, a beginner florist, and I asked her. She had never done a wreath before, and she was like, "I can try, but I've only done bouquets." And I was like, "Anything is better than nothing at this point."


So we worked together, and it turned out amazing. My friend Gracie came in on Saturday to spend the day with us, and I was like, "Hey, on your way to my house, can you pick up this wreath I had made from my mom? It's a surprise."


I knew my mom was so stressed and worked up. On Friday night, she said, "I never got flowers. I never got a wreath made." And she was really upset about it. 


Then my mom walked into the living room Saturday morning, right before we were about to leave, and she saw the wreath and said, "Wait."


She turned to my friend and said, "Did you make this?" 


Gracie said, "No, Brianna had it made. I just picked it up." My mom started bawling. 


Obviously, you don't want to make your mom cry, but in a way, I think the rush of emotions just hit her. 


There were also a lot of overflowing emotions just because this is something I've always wanted. Being Queen of this organization, representing this organization, and representing my family have always been very important to me. 


Usually, they have the outgoing queen crown the incoming queen. But last year, because they found out my family's history and that my mom had recently just finished radiation for breast cancer and had missed the year prior, they asked my mom, "Do you want to crown Brianna?"


There's a picture of her crowning me in Saints Peter and Paul's Church. Those are two memories that I'll definitely always have.

Mom-crowning-Brianna-.jpg

 

What do you hope to share with the broader community?

Even though everything is about being Sicilian and Italian, we are inclusive of everything else. I will also say that even though we love our traditions and keep to them as much as possible, it's so great to see us expanding. And I know that next year, being the 90th year, it's going to be our biggest year yet.


We've already talked to different organizations about creating an entire gallery for next year. It is going to be really exciting to share all the past photos and commemorate the fact that this has been happening for 90 years. We've always been a smaller organization, and it comes together. We love our traditions, but we also love creating new traditions.

 

 

 

If you enjoyed this article, consider subscribing to my newsletter for more content and updates!