Lindsay Marie Morris

My Sicilian grandmother may have been the cook of the household, but it was my grandfather who grew much of the produce she used in her dishes.

I can still remember sitting in the kitchen as Luciano Pavarotti's tenor voice filtered through the fragrant air. Nonna was stirring a pot of something wonderful on the stove when Nonno burst through the door with a tray of sun-dried tomatoes. He'd dried them himself by wrapping the tray in plastic and setting it out in the sun to do its magic. Who needed store-bought when doing it yourself was so easy and delicious? 

Food blogger Andrea Lagana of Hip Hip Gourmet agrees, but she "sun dries" her tomatoes in the oven before popping them into a dehydrator. 

"Doing it outside is nice and all, but there are lots of variables to consider (such as bugs, temperature, rain, etc.), so using a dehydrator is the no-fail preferred method in our family," she says.

Andrea took time out to share why she dries her own tomatoes, which tomatoes are best for drying, how to boost dried tomato flavor, and which recipes are best for sun-dried tomatoes. 

What is your background, and where is your Italian family from?

I'm a proud second-generation Italian. Both of my parents were born in Italy, both in Calabria, but in different towns. My dad is from Scilla, and my mom is from Montalto Uffugo.

Did your family sun-dry tomatoes?

My parents don't actually remember their families sun-drying tomatoes in Italy because they were so small when they left. However, my mom does have a few memories of her aunts and uncles sun-drying figs from their fresh backyard fig trees, so I'm sure it's not far-fetched to say that they did tomatoes, too.

When did you start sun-drying tomatoes, and why?

I started sun-drying tomatoes as soon as I started living on my own (about a decade or so ago!). It was always a staple in our house growing up and something I would help my parents make every year. I just knew I had to carry on the tradition not only because we've been making them for so long but also because they're so dang delicious, and I seriously can't live without them! So much so that I've actually vowed to make them every year for the rest of my life.

What is your preferred tomato-drying method?

I personally like to start my fresh halved (usually Roma or San Marzano) tomatoes in the oven on the lowest rack for a couple of hours. Then, I transfer them to a dehydrator to finish drying out. This process can be long and requires patience and persistence, as you have to keep going in every so often to check on them and take the ready ones out (they can be ready at different times). I like this method because it's efficient, reliable, and easy.

However, if I lived in Italy under the hot Italian sun, perhaps I would stick to the old-fashioned way of actually using the sun to dry them out completely. My mom used to start them outside in the sun in our backyard (instead of the oven), and then she'd move them to the dehydrator to finish.

How does the process differ from traditional sun-drying?

Traditional sun-drying includes salting the halved tomatoes to draw out excess moisture (which we don't do) and placing them in direct sunlight for several days with a protective covering like a screen or a cheesecloth to keep the insects away. The tomatoes will get rotated or flipped a few times during this process to ensure even drying. The process is generally longer than my family's method of using a dehydrator, as the sun must be shining in order for the tomatoes to dry out completely. 

What types of tomatoes are best suited for sun-drying?

We love using fresh and ripe Roma or San Marzano tomatoes for sun-drying. These beauties are the perfect size (go for the smaller ones) and have fewer seeds and more "meat" than other varieties. They also have a firm texture and lower water content, making them ideal for sun-drying. We also make fresh tomato sauce at the same time, and, as any Italian will tell you, Roma and/or San Marzano are basically the only options!

Can you list some common mistakes to avoid when making sun-dried tomatoes?

• Not using the right tomatoes: Remember, San Marzano or Roma. My Italian parents wouldn't approve of any other variety! 
• Overcrowding the dehydrator. The air needs room to circulate, and overcrowding the trays or overlapping the tomatoes will result in uneven and improperly dried tomatoes. For best results, place the tomatoes in a single and even layer.
• Taking the sun-dried tomatoes out too soon. You want to make sure they are dry but still bendy when you press them between your fingers. They shouldn't be moist, squishy, or hard at all. 
• Not tossing the ready ones in a splash of oil while waiting for the rest to finish. As I said, this process can take several days (or even weeks, depending on how many tomatoes you're drying). Tossing the ready ones in a bit of oil and keeping them in a container with a tight-fitting lid keeps them fresh and prevents mold before jarring.
• Not ensuring that all of the sun-dried tomatoes are completely submerged in oil at all times (after jarring). Make sure to always press them down beneath the oil with a fork after each use and/or topping up the oil as often as is needed.
• Not having patience. It's a virtue and so required in this process. But trust me, it's totally worth it and will pay off tenfold!
  
  

How can you enhance the flavor of tomatoes during the drying process?

You can definitely add salt to the halved tomatoes before drying. I'm sure you could also add some spices (e.g., garlic powder or Italian seasoning) if you wish. I haven't ever tried doing this before drying, but I'm sure it would be a good experiment.

Personally, my family likes to keep the tomatoes plain Jane during the drying process. We enhance the flavor after the tomatoes are completely dried out by adding loads of fresh chopped garlic, oregano, salt, and oil as we jar them.

What are the benefits of drying tomatoes at home versus buying them from a store?

Like anything homemade, they're just way better for so many reasons! First and foremost, they are much cheaper in the long run than store-bought varieties. I find that you can't find a good-tasting jar of sun-dried tomatoes for less than $15 these days (and I'm talkin' the smallest of small jars you could find). I also find that the oil used in most jarred varieties isn't an oil I consume on a regular basis, so I prefer making my own so I can control the exact ingredients and measurements that go into each jar.

And, of course, the real benefit of making sun-dried tomatoes at home is that I seriously cannot find a sun-dried tomato that is as delicious as the ones my family has been making for all of these years. Call me biased, but it's a fact!

What are some creative ways to incorporate sun-dried tomatoes into your cooking?

I love using sun-dried tomatoes in my cooking, so I feel like I can never have enough of them! Eating them straight out of the jar is, of course, also delicious. But here are some ways I like to use them:

• In pasta—why, of course! I wouldn't be Italian if I didn't suggest throwing some into the next pasta dish you make. My mom adds them to her pasta aglio e olio (a traditional simple olive oil and garlic pasta), which takes it to a whole other level.
• If you're feeling fancy (but not really, because all it takes is 10 minutes to make!), try my pesto rosso (aka my sun-dried tomato pesto), where the homemade sun-dried tomatoes are the true star! You can use this pesto on pasta, as a base for a pizza, or as a marinade for things like chicken or pork. It's even great on eggs.
• I love chopping sun-dried tomatoes and adding them to anything, from pizza (they're so good on pizza!) to meatballs (like my homemade sun-dried tomato turkey meatballs with spinach and goat cheese). 

One of my favorite things to do with sun-dried tomatoes is make Mediterranean-inspired dishes. They pair well with olives, capers, artichoke hearts, and spinach.

Here are two of my go-to recipes that use sun-dried tomatoes:

• Mediterranean Baked Halibut (you can use any white fish)
• Lightened Up Tuscan Chicken

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It's the quintessential Italian sport, now played worldwide, attracting people of all ages and rivaling soccer in its popularity. Bocce, a form of competitive lawn bowling, pronounced "bot-cheh," has emerged from your grandfather's bocce court as a serious contender for the Olympic Games, falling just short of the requisite 16 countries. And it's become more common to see women participating and competing at elite levels. Just ask Mill Valley, California, resident Teresa Rea, who, along with her teammate Jolene Kramer, won the 2019 U.S. National Bocce Championship Women's Doubles Gold Medal.

Teresa, who is represented by the Marin Bocce Federation, sat down with me to discuss bocce basics.

How did you get started with bocce ball?

In 1999, someone suggested that I join their league team. I'd never played, and I played 20 years of volleyball. So, they knew I had hand-eye coordination, which is probably the one requirement for this sport. And so I've been playing in leagues at Marin Bocce Federation ever since. But in 2004, I discovered there were regional leagues and regional tournaments. Sometimes, it's four-player: four men, four women, two men, two women… There are three-player tournaments, there are two-player tournaments, and there are singles tournaments. They're all around what's called the Western Sector of the United States Bocce Federation. That is the nationwide organization that represents us with Canada, with Europe, with South America.

In 2004, I began playing in those tournaments and upped my game. About two or three years later, I began playing Punto Raffa Volo, the principal Italian game.

What exactly is Punto Raffa Volo?

Punto means pointing. You're bending over and lagging the ball. Raffa is a running shot where you approach a fixed line, must then throw your ball, and clear a line about 12 feet out. And then, having called your target shot, you're aiming for a specific ball down the court. Volo is similar, but you run to a different line, and you have to hit your designated target ball on the fly.  

And there's a high degree of precision in it that does not exist in the open play that many Americans play. You can't bump another ball more than 40 centimeters in our game. If you do, there are a lot of rules. Balls are all marked, and things can be put back and removed from the court if you don't hit your target. So, I've been playing that ever since.

I had the opportunity to represent the United States and play in the United States Bocce Federation Nationals, which occur the last week of every June, sometimes in California, typically Chicago, St. Louis, or Boston. That attracts players from around the country to play several different formats. And then, in 2019, probably the best moment was when my teammate Jolene Kramer and I won the gold medal in the women's doubles.

What are the basic rules of bocce?

The object of the game after you've thrown the small ball, or pallino, out onto the court past the center line is to get at least one or more of your balls closer to the pallino than the opponent. And you take turns trying to do so. You may either be trying to get closer or bump them out and leave yourself there to be closer. And if you get one of your balls, only one of your balls closer than any of theirs, you get one point, two, three… If all four of your balls are closer, you get what's called a casino.

That's a simple open game. The object of Punta Raffa Volo is still the same. You want to have more of your balls closer to the pallino than the other team. Only the team with the close balls gets points in a given frame.

What's another popular style of bocce?

There is another game called Volo that's part of this collection, and you play with metal balls, and there's lagging. It's about 50% lagging and 50% shooting. And that's mostly men, I would say. Yeah, it's 90% men because it's all about throwing the ball the entire distance of the court.

What's the history of bocce?

Well, I mean, we all suspect that it started with a couple of cavemen saying, "I can throw this rock closer to that rock than you can." It's evolved in each country because bocce is the Italian version of boules lawn bowling. Boules and pétanque are French, and lawn bowling is English.

It evolved predominantly in the countryside on crushed oyster shells or dirt courts, which leads to a somewhat lumpy terrain that's played on. But it has evolved to the point where most of the Italian clubs are indoors, and it's a synthetic rubber surface that is mostly flat. I've only met one pair of courts that was literally perfect. Everything else has its little idiosyncrasies because the earth under it moved, or the building shifted, or whatever.

What is it like to be a woman playing this stereotypically male game?

Well, amongst the players, the presumption is that the women will only do the lagging [the typical rolling style]. They'll not do the shooting [aiming to displace another ball on the court]. That has eased over the decades that I've been playing so that there's every reason to believe a woman's as likely to be a shooter as a man.

Young boys tend to gravitate to the sport because of the chance to shoot. So very often, you'll see if it's a mixed doubles foursome, the woman will be doing the first two balls and lagging for position, and the man will be doing the latter half. When they created the categories for women to play doubles together, many more women learned how to shoot. And now, probably 60% of the men shoot, but at least 40% of the women do.

Have you been to Italy?

Oh, yes. Twice. My best friend from high school married a Fiorentino, and the three of us and their two kids went roaming through Tuscany. Multiple times, we saw men out playing bocce on their dirt courts. Once, in Cinque Terra, I also saw a bocce court right near the beach.

Do you have a favorite Italian dish?

Probably eggplant parmigiana.

What do you do when you're not playing bocce?

I'm retired now, but I was a land-use planner for 30 years.

So, what's next for you?

There are still tournaments, and I'll probably participate in a fundraiser in October. The beauty of fundraisers is that you can have players of all levels who care to join and play, and you're making money for a nonprofit that needs support.

>>Looking to join a bocce club? Here are some tips.<<

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